A T U F T S C O M M U N I C A T I O N S F I N E J E W E L R Y P U B L I C A T I O N
M A G A Z I N E
Momentous MILESTONES ROLEX AdventureWatches Magic Colored GEMSTONES Engaging NEWLOOKS
AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2020 • ISSUE 9
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E • A U T U M N / H O L I D A Y 2 0 2 0
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Warmest personal greetings,
This year we are especially grateful to you, our clients and friends, for your ongoing support and encouragement during a very difficult period in all of our lives. To everyone who has made a visit or sent a thoughtful message of encouragement to make sure we were all safe and healthy, thank you! One thing that we have noticed is that a pandemic does not stop people from wanting to celebrate life’s special moments. During the shut down so many of you have reached out to us for support and help in finding a gift to celebrate a birthday, Mother’s Day, anniversaries, engagements, and graduations. It is very heart warming to see people want to celebrate special occasions during a pandemic. Like many businesses, we have learned to adapt to the new health and safety guidelines, providing for a safe and healthy environment for of all our employees and clients. This is our ninth edition of Fredric Rubel Magazine . We have some great features we hope everyone will enjoy along with our beautiful jewelry and timepieces featured throughout the magazine. To everyone, we hope that you have a wonderful holiday season and find peace, happiness, and especially good health.
With gratitude,
The Rubel Family
11.41 Rubellite Tourmaline set in Platinum with Diamonds by Jack Kelege.
9 2 4 T H E S H O P S A T M I S S I O N V I E J O • M I S S I O N V I E J O , C A • 9 4 9 3 6 4 3 5 3 5
2 4 6 F O R E S T A V E N U E • L A G U N A B E A C H , C A • 9 4 9 4 9 4 3 5 1 3
ROMAN BAROCCO COLLECTION
SO CLASSIC. SO ESSENTIAL. SO KWIAT
the chatelaine ® collection
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M AG A Z I N E • I S S U E 9 CONTENTS
4 WELCOME
32 ROLEX ADVENTURE WATCHES
50 STYLE ON THE RISE
14 ROLEX MENTOR INITIATIVE
54 SMOOTH AS SILK
35 MOMENTOUS MILESTONES
56 VIRTUALLY YOURS
18 FROM PETITE TO SPECTACULAR
38 THE FREDRIC H. RUBEL TEAM
57 A WORTHY CAUSE
40 ENGAGING NEW LOOKS
22 DAVID YURMAN CLASSIC DESIGN
58 LAST BUT NOT LEAST
24 MAGIC COLORED GEMSTONES
44 INTIMATE EVENTS
28 COME GET RAD
48 WEDDING BELLES
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ON T H E COV E R : KW I A T
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director
Carol Besler • Editorial Director
Lori Roberts • Associate Editor
Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Steve DeVilbiss • Select Jewelry Photography
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor
Prices are subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.
Fredric H. Rubel Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 600 Corporation Drive, Suite 106 • Pendleton, IN 46064 T: 765-819-2500 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2020, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
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to give back
H E L P S A R T I S T S S H A R E T H E I R C R E A T I V E L E G A C I E S ROLEX MENTOR AND PROTÉGÉ ARTS INITIATIVE M Many people, including collectors and aficionados, consider a Rolex watch to be a work of art, but what may be less known is that when you buy a Rolex, you are also making a contribution to global culture. Rolex founded the Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative in 2002, and since then has paired 54 of the world’s greatest artists with younger artists of exceptional promise and talent from around the globe. The purpose of the initiative is to ensure the world’s artistic heritage is passed on by pairing young artists with established artistic masters and funding them for two years of one-to-one collaboration. At the heart of the process is an exchange of talent, much like the transmission of traditional watchmaking skills from master to apprentice. Rolex has paired artists in dance, film, literature, music, theatre, visual arts and architecture. A system of grants and honorariums supports both mentors and protégés during each term of collaboration. The 2020/2021 pairs include:
Composer and actor Lin-Manuel Miranda will work with 28-year-old Argentinian director, screenwriter and cinematographer Agustina San Martin, who won a Special Mention Jury Prize for Best Short Film at the 72nd Cannes Festival for Monster God (2019).
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Visual artist Carrie Mae Weems, who will mentor 35-year-old Camila Rodriguez Triana of Colombia, whose work has been exhibited in shows in South America and Europe.
To choose the participants of the program, Rolex assembles an advisory board comprised of experts qualified to identify talented young artists from their worldwide network of contacts who meet each mentor’s profile for a protégé. To ensure impartiality, panel members remain anonymous during the selection period. The goal for Rolex is to make a contribution to global culture and to encourage an enriching dialogue between generations of artists. The program gives young artists the opportunity to benefit from the two years of guidance and inspiration of working with an artistic master in their field. Protégés over the years have commented that the experience of being mentored deepens their knowledge of their artistic discipline and boosts their confidence, profile and connections with other people in the arts. Mentors have also benefited from the relationship. It gives them an opportunity to see their art through younger eyes and refresh their own outlook on their discipline. Rolex
asks its mentors and protégés to interact for at least six weeks during the mentoring period, which takes place over two years. Most pairs spend considerably more time together. Some of the alliances have resulted in serious collaborations, leading to performances and works of art. “We at Rolex have been privileged that, for nearly two decades, dozens of the most genre-defining artists have lent their time and expertise to the Arts Initiative,” says Rebecca Irvin, program director. “The four new mentors who join the initiative’s community of creative greats have broken new ground in their respective fields, and we look forward to the impact they will have on their protégés, as they pass on their devotion to their arts in this cross-generational exchange.” At the end of the mentoring period, Rolex will invite the participants and guests to honor the achievements of the mentors and protégés at a public weekend of celebrations.
British director Phyllida Lloyd, who will mentor 33-year-old Whitney White, an accomplished director, musician/composer and actress.
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Filmmaker Spike Lee, who will mentor his chosen protégé, 33-year-old Kyle Bell, an American filmmaker whose work includes the Heartland Emmy-winning documentary show Osiyo: Voices of the Cherokee People.
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spotlight
SPECTACULAR from PETITE to ROBERTO COIN CREATES SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE THIS SEASON
Opera Diamond Huggies $3,600.
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hen Roberto Coin began to design and produce jewelry in 1977
on behalf of some of the most prestigious international brands of fine jewelry, he found himself quickly becoming one of the most sought-after designers in the business. He eventually launched his own brand in 1996, and has never looked back. Roberto’s quirky yet elegant style, combined with the highest standards of craftsmanship, have brought him loyal admirers from around the world. One of his strengths is the breadth of his collections. He has made a commitment to designing hundreds of new pieces every year, a testament to the strength and longevity of his creative drive. Whether building on existing collections and familiar motifs or blowing us away with something utterly unique, Roberto’s sense of what women want to accessorize with is spot on.
Opera ring.
Roman Barocco Bangle with 1.80 carats of diamonds.
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Triangle Diamond Line Earrings.
Many of his collections are inspired by Italian architecture, particularly that of Venice. The Venetian Princess collection reinterprets the four-petal rosetta motif of the windows at the Palazzo Ducale in St. Mark’s Square in Venice, a masterpiece of Venetian Gothic architecture. There is also a Palazzo Ducale collection, with the familiar rosetta motif inspired by the long rows of Venetian quatrefoils carved above the loggia or terraces that face the piazza. The look, with its satin finishes, twisted gold rope and diamond accents, is classic and harmonious, like the pure lines of Venetian architecture.
Diamond Y Drop Necklace with
4.30 carats of diamonds $14,500.
When Roberto Coin launched his brand in the United States in 1996, Opera was one of the first collections he introduced. It was inspired by the maestros of Italian opera … Verdi, Puccini, Rossini … and likewise transforms emotion into art. The
Palazzo Ducale Studs $1,350.
soaring arias that sopranos and tenors sing on stage find their precious equivalent in the flexible bracelets, band rings and hoop earrings of today’s Royal Opera revival collection. It features two Roberto Coin hallmarks: braided gold texture and pin-and-peg flexible construction, resulting in pieces that move with your body.
3 Stone Cento Ring with 1.63 carats of diamonds.
Hand Finished Venetian Princess Bangle $9,700.
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The Roman Barocco collection has a similarly lush woven look. It is made using a 3D mesh technique that creates the look of delicate gold threads that are hardened with alloys to make them more robust than they look. The diamond-shaped pattern adds an angular sophistication to the feminine design. Roberto’s love of architectural shapes and geometric lines is also evident in the daring oblique angles of the Obelisco collection and the classic lines of the Y-necklaces. One of this year’s most unique new additions is an 18k gold Zipper necklace! It functions as an actual zipper, with a tongue that can be pulled up or down along tiny golden teeth. It can be adjusted to the
desired length, and has a clasp at the back so you can take it off without having to zip it back down again. The clasp, tongue and little balls at the end of each chain can be set with diamonds. Bellissimo! And speaking of diamonds, Roberto Coin’s Cento collection was launched primarily to showcase his spectacular 100-facet Cento- cut diamonds – with twice the facets of a traditional round brilliant diamond, for twice the dazzle. Cento is Italian for the number 100; culturally, the term refers to the Italian theme of excellence and the particular precision of the jewelry. The Cento collection features some of the most exclusive and premier diamond jewelry treasures in the line.
Y Oval Hoop Earrings.
Bangle Bracelets available in 18K Rose, White, and Yellow Gold starting at $5,450.
PERFECT FOR STACKING The pieces in each of Roberto Coin’s collection are meant to be mixed and matched to create your own signature stack. Pair an 18k yellow gold bangle with diamond-studded flowers from the Venetian Princess collection, for example, with a contrasting 18k rose or white polished gold one from the Pois Moi Luna collection, with its contrasting surface of circular indentations accented with diamonds. As ever, many of Roberto’s collections can be punctuated with diamond, ruby, emerald or sapphire highlights, in addition to the unique look of malachite, mother-of-pearl or black jade. You can also go for full-on dazzle by adding pavé diamonds.
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CENTO COLLECTION
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spotlight
REDEFINES CLASSIC DESIGN DAVID YURMAN David Yurman is known for creating jewelry that is dramatic yet simple and organic. It moves with the body, it is proportioned for the body, and it makes a statement about the way jewelry can be used to reflect the beautiful forms that surround us in everyday life. The Starburst collection, with its dramatic bursts of light, is a perfect example of the designer’s ability to translate his talents as a sculptor, and the Helena collection is a celebration of the signature Cable motif from the 1980s. Starburst Y Necklace with Diamonds in Sterling Silver $1,500.
Featuring the Starburst Collection.
The Starburst collection has romantic origins. The inspiration came about while David Yurman and his wife Sybil were watching fireworks illuminate the Paris night sky. The magical bursts of light showering the Eiffel Tower and Tuileries Gardens greatly moved the couple, inspiring David to create designs of brilliant star motifs. The collection explodes with bursts of gold and silver, accented with diamonds. Ethereal golden rays set with diamonds radiate out from the center as three-dimensional objects that seem to be in the midst of exploding.A Starburst bangle, earrings, or a pendant with stations of small motifs along the chain adds just the right touch of drama, conjuring images of fireworks, planets, or stars in the night sky.
Starburst Center Station Bracelet with Diamonds $850.
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Helena Hoop Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold with Diamonds $1,950.
The Helena collection is more classic. It is a celebration of David Yurman’s signature motif, the woven gold Cable design that debuted in 1983 and has since become iconic. In this collection, golden threads punctuated with hand-set pavé diamonds wrap around the cable strands like ribbons, adding extra dimension and sparkle to the timeless design. Now offered in narrower, more petite silhouettes, each Helena piece is engineered to be light in weight yet crafted with the same artisanal quality as the original Cable bracelet created nearly 40 years ago. As with all of his designs, your body is the muse for this season’s David Yurman collections. They are created through the eyes of a sculptor, inspired by love, and meant to adorn you with all the care and craft that goes into a work of art.
Featuring the Helena Collection.
Petite Helena Bracelets in 18K Yellow Gold starting at $2,450.
Petite Helena 3 Row Ring in 18K Yellow Gold with Diamonds $3,400.
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THE MAGIC OF COLORED
THE COLORS YOU SURROUND YOURSELF WITH EVERY DAY HAVE A POWERFUL ENERGY THAT GOES BEYOND STYLE AND SELF-EXPRESSION GEMSTONES
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ecause gemstones are created by nature, people have always believed they have a special energy and mystical properties. Belief in gem powers has existed for nearly 5,000 years. Depending on the era and the civilization, colored stones have been associated with wealth, power, love, safety, and wellbeing. Some people think gem lore is silly — how could a simple rock have such power? I would argue that wearing a beautiful gemstone has the power to promote
emotional wellbeing and strength just by making you feel beautiful and powerful. Gemstones allow us to illuminate our individual spirits and express our sense of style. Everyone responds to color, and each hue works its own special, secret magic. From amethyst and garnet to the finest rubies and emeralds, jewelry designers are constantly finding new ways of conveying that power. Here are some recent examples and a glimpse into the special magic of gem colors.
YELLOW YELLOW IS THE MOST LUMINOUS OF ALL THE COLORS OF THE SPECTRUM. IT’S THE COLOR OF HAPPINESS, AND OPTIMISM, OF ENLIGHTENMENT AND CREATIVITY, SUNSHINE AND SPRING. YELLOW AS A FAVORITE COLOR IS SAID TO REPRESENT HAPPINESS AND A LOVE OF LEARNING. YOU PROBABLY LOVE TO EXPRESS YOUR INDIVIDUALITY BY CREATING NEW IDEAS AND SHARING YOUR COLLECTED KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS, AND MIGHT HAVE A DEEP NEED FOR LOGICAL ORDER IN YOUR EVERYDAY LIFE.
Harry Kotlar Yellow Diamond Pear Dangles.
Jack Kelege Diamond and Fancy Yellow Diamond Band set in 18K Yellow Gold and Platinum, $23,000.
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ROBERTO COIN’S MAGICAL RUBY Sometimes it is the spiritual side of a thing that counts. That is the philosophy behind the hidden ruby in each Roberto Coin jewelry creation. Since he started his eponymous brand in 1996, Roberto has become known as the creator of many of the most interesting trends in the jewelry world, not only in his native Italy but also the United States. His quirky yet elegant style, combined with the highest standards of craftsmanship and his winning personality and warmth, have brought him loyal admirers from around the world. As a designer interested in the mystical, inspirational powers of gemstones, Roberto has long signed each of his pieces with a small ruby set inside the jewelry, in direct contact with the skin of the wearer. This magical signature represents the message of good wishes that Roberto Coin dedicates to his passionate clientele.
RED IS THE COLOR OF LOVE. IT RADIATES WARMTH AND PRODUCES A STRONG SENSE OF VITALITY. TWO MAGICAL ELEMENTS ARE ASSOCIATED WITH THE SYMBOLISM OF THIS COLOR: FIRE AND BLOOD, IMPLYING WARMTH AND LIFE FOR MANKIND.
Roberto Coin Diamond & Ruby Necklace $2,700.
Burmese Ruby Studs $6,695.
Monica Rich Kosann “Luck” Ruby Poesy Bracelet $1,315.
RUBY: Like no other gemstone, the ruby is the perfect way to express powerful feelings. Ruby symbolizes bravery, determination, and passionate energy. A ring set with a precious ruby is a celebration of love, which makes everything else possible. It is also the July birthstone and the gem of the 40th anniversary.
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BLUE IS A UNIVERSALLY FAVORITE COLOR. IT IS COOLING AND SOOTHING, AND IT IS SAID TO INSPIRE WISDOM AND CLARITY. SOFT BLUES ARE THOUGHT TO CALM THE MIND AND AID CONCENTRATION. TRUE BLUE LOVERS ARE LOYAL, AFFECTIONATE, CARING, AND ENCOURAGING.
Penny Preville Oval Moonstone Earrings set in 18K Blackened White Gold.
“In ancient times, the moonstone was believed to be formed by moonlight. When worn as an amulet, a moonstone serves as a good luck charm to protect you. It was also known as an aphrodisiac, being said that if worn by two people when there is a full moon they will fall passionately in love ” ~Penny Preville
Man In The Moon Pendant $3,025.
Rose Cut Moonstone Bangle $3,625.
PURPLE HAS AN AURA OF MYSTERY AND INTRIGUE, BUT ALSO OF AUTHENTICITY AND TRUTH. IT IS SAID TO ENCOURAGE DEEP CONTEMPLATION OR MEDITATION AND LEAD TO A HIGHER LEVEL OF THOUGHT. PURPLE HAS LONG BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH ROYALTY AND HAS COME TO REPRESENT QUALITY AND LUXURY.
“Using pastel multicolored sapphires in the collection gives the appearance of the watercolor paintings I have always admired” says Penny Preville.
Diamond & Cushion Cut Watercolor Sapphire Stud Earrings & Cocktail Ring.
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COME GET
I n our vibrant coastal community, restaurants thrive, and it seems like there’s always a new local spot to try. One of those unique spots this year is Rad Brat. Located in the heart of the Dana Point community, this fresh, new joint invites you to, “Come get rad with the wurst.” Inspired by music festivals, craft beer, and bratwurst recipes from around the country, Rad Brat draws you in with the smells and makes you want to stay for the company and music. With a laid back, industrial style, skater, surfer vibe, Rad Brat is a place for the entire family. Whether you’re looking for a great place to enjoy family time or are just looking for a unique bite to eat after a day at the beach, this is the place for you. WITH THE WURST
Co-owner Cameron Collins explains that his vision for a Dana Point location came after spending years in the craft beer festival business. Collins has spent most of his career hosting music festival events around the country with Brew HaHa Productions. Along the way, his travels have exposed him to a variety of bratwurst, sausage, and hot dog combinations that he’s now bringing to Orange County. Concrete countertops, red high-back bar stools, and a red industrial pipe for 28 beer taps instantly catch your eye. Group seating picnic tables scatter the dining area, and the smell of sausages, bratwursts, and other hand-picked delicacies fill the room and waft out into the street, which is precisely what the owners intended. “We’re kind of saying, “No shoes, no shirt, no worries,” Collins says. “We’re keeping it super casual, and we have a nice outside patio that can seat 40 to 50 people comfortably.”
This rad new place rolls up their doors at 11 a.m. every day of the week, and from the moment you walk in, you’ll feel like you’re a part of something: Like you’ve found a place where you can get more than food. Not only will you take your tastes buds on a journey, but you’ll also be emersed in local music and local brews while you enjoy the company of those around you. What’s on the menu, you ask? Well, according to Collins, you can expect everything from iconic dogs from around the country to specialties that he and his business partners have come up with on their own. “We’re doing one called the Angry Samoan, which is a reference to an old punk band out of Orange County,” Collins says. “It’s Portuguese sausage on a Hawaiian roll that’s got fried spam, a teriyaki sauce, spicy mayo, and a spice jalapeño salsa. And then on top of all of that is crushed Maui onion chips.” If you’re ready to get rad with the wurst in Orange County, stop by Rad Brat. There are no expectations, and the more, the merrier!
LOCATION: 34091 La Plaza, Dana Point, CA 92629
INSTAGRAM: radbratisthewurst FACEBOOK: RadBratIsTheWurst WEBSITE: www.radbrat.com
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WHAT IT TAKES TO MAKE THE
WORLD’S MOST RELIABLE
SPORTS WATCHES
AHISTORYOFROLEX ADVENTURE WATCHES AND THE MATERIALS THAT MAKE THEM GREAT
Rolex is the original action watch and has long been associated with adventure. Rolex watches have survived the most extreme conditions, from the highest summits to the deepest recesses of the ocean. Climb Mount Everest? Check. Submerge into the depths of the Mariana Trench? Check. The world of Rolex is a world that calls for robust watches — even fictional worlds have touted the watch — the original James Bond timepiece was a Rolex. Since it was founded in 1905, the company has filed over 500 patents. It is credited with inventing the world’s first waterproof wristwatch and the world’s first self-winding mechanism, the perpetual rotor. First came the water resistance. The Oyster Perpetual collection, with hermetically sealed cases, was built on the success of the original Oyster model, patented by Rolex and launched in 1926. As the maker of the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of the modern timepiece. In 1927, it was worn by British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her historic swim across the English Channel. The swim lasted over 10 hours, and the watch remained in perfect working order. In 1931, Rolex invented and patented the world’s first self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor, which is today at the heart of every modern automatic watch. The first expedition to fly over Everest, in 1933, was equipped with Rolex Oysters, and 20 years later, Sir John Hunt’s expedition, in which Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest, was equipped with Oyster Perpetuals. In 1960, the experimental bathyscaphe, the Trieste, successfully descended into the Mariana Trench, the deepest known depression on the Earth’s surface. Emerging from 10,916 meters (37,800 feet), the bathyscaphe was in perfect working order — as was the Rolex Deep Sea Special experimental watch that had been attached to the outside during the historic dive.
Submariner Date 41 mm, in Oystersteel.
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HERE ARE SOME OF THE EXCLUSIVE MATERIALS THAT GO INTO A ROLEX WATCH: OYSTERSTEEL : This is 904L grade steel, a superalloy used in the aerospace and chemical industries, and that means it has the corrosion resistance and high polish of precious metals. It also has a high sheen, so it looks good for a long time. EVEROSE GOLD: To preserve the beauty of its pink gold watches, in 2005 Rolex created and patented a new alloy that it casts in its own foundry: Everose gold, which owes its unique color — a pink hue unlike any other — to its composition. PLATINUM: Rolex uses 950 platinum, an alloy consisting of 95 percent pure platinum generally combined with ruthenium. At Rolex, platinum is above all used for the Day-Date, the most prestigious watch in the Oyster collection. The practiced eye immediately recognizes a Day-Date or Daytona with an ice blue dial as a platinum model.
Day-Date 40 mm, in platinum.
ROLESOR: Rolesor is the story of the auspicious meeting of two materials on a single Rolex watch: the juxtaposition of gold and steel with their contrasting colors and radiance, in subtly balanced harmony. The name Rolesor was patented by Rolex in 1933, and has become one of the distinctive elements of the brand’s watches, a true Rolex signature. The bezel, winding crown, and center bracelet links are made of 18k yellow or Everose gold, and the middle case and the outer links of the bracelet are made of Oystersteel. CERACHROM: Developed and patented by Rolex, these components are made from particularly hard ceramics that are virtually impervious to scratches. Their colors are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. Thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic cannot corrode. CHROMALIGHT: Rolex’s luminescent material, Chromalight is blue by night, bright white by day, providing high visibility in dark environments.
Cosmograph Daytona 40 mm, in yellow gold with Oysterflex bracelet.
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ROLEX’S EXCEPTIONAL BRACELETS INCLUDE:
JUBILEE BRACELET: The supple five-piece links on dressy watches and some sport watches, such as the GMT-Master II. It was originally designed for the Datejust in 1945.
OYSTER BRACELET: The larger, flat, three-piece links make for a simpler, sportier look. PRESIDENT BRACELET: The President uses semi-circular three-piece links, originally created in 1956 for the Day- Date. It is always made of carefully selected precious metals. OYSTERFLEX BRACELET: Made of a very soft, flexible elastomer with an internal cushion system that makes it extremely well fitting and comfortable. The bracelet is fitted over a metal blade made of a titanium and nickel alloy, achieving the strength of metal and the comfort of rubber.
Rolex Datejust 36 in stainless steel with a Jubilee bracelet.
GMT-Master II 40 mm, known as the “Pepsi” in Oystersteel with Jubilee bracelet.
ROLEX ICONIC MODELS TIMELINE:
1945: The Datejust, the first selfwinding wrist chronometer to indicate the date in a window on the dial. 1953: The Submariner, the first diver’s watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). Its rotatable bezel allows divers to read their immersion time. 1953: The Oyster Perpetual Explorer was launched in 1953 to celebrate the victorious ascent of Mount Everest. 1955: The GMT-Master, with its famous two-color bezel. 1956: The Day-Date, with its now-iconic President bracelet. 1956: The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss was created to meet the demands of the scientific community. It remains capable of withstanding magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss. 1963: The Cosmograph Daytona quickly became the ultimate tool for endurance racing drivers.
Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 in white Rolesor features an aubergine, diamond-set dial and an Oyster bracelet.
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MOMENTOUS MILESTONES
There is no gift that can capture moments, milestones, and meanings in our lives quite like jewelry. For couples, the journey that began with the exchange of iconic wedding rings can be retold and celebrated with each passing year together in personal gifts of fine jewelry. The sky’s the limit when it comes to anniversary jewelry. It can be diamonds every year, your favorite color or birthstone, lustrous pearls, or classic gold and silver pieces. The choices are as unique as the couples making them. But there are precious gems and metals that have come to signify special anniversaries and might be a part of your perfect gift.
Kwiat Lyric Three Row Huggie Earrings with 1.42 carats of diamonds
diamond Diamond, which signifies forever, is the gemstone suggested for anniversaries number 10 and 60. The name is derived from the Latin diamas meaning unconquerable, and this gemstone has maintained its position throughout history as a perfect icon for everlasting love and marriage. Diamond is believed to inspire loyalty, romance, and a joyful life. Chosen by most first brides to seal the deal, diamond offers many ways to celebrate each year together — from studs and solitaire pendants to stackable bands and bracelets. Especially popular are two-stone diamond ring designs and three-stone styles with white center and gemstone sides. The great thing about diamond is there are many colors to choose from, with yellow, champagne, and brown being especially popular right now.
Kwiat Riviera Demi Necklace’s starting at $3,900
Jasmine Cuff with 4.95 Carats of Diamonds set in 18K White Gold.
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Sapphire is suggested for anniversaries number 5 and 45. This gemstone has historically signified truth and promises, perfect sentiments for any marriage. Next to diamond, sapphire is a favorite wedding gem, inspiring sincerity, peace, and joy. The most popular anniversary gift in sapphire has been stackable bands. And the great thing about sapphire is that it comes in several colors, with blue, yellow, and pink to choose from. Other iconic designs include bold sapphire rings and three-stone styles with diamonds, as well as different earring treatments and bracelets, sometimes in ombré or mixed color patterns. sapphire
Kwiat ASHOKA® Diamond and Calibre Sapphire Halo
Pendant, $18,300.
Kwiat Splendor Sapphire and Diamond Earrings with 3.64 carats of sapphires.
ruby Ruby symbolizes the power of attraction and long-lasting love. It is the top suggestion for anniversaries number 15 and 40. This fiery red gem — the color of the heart — has always been associated with deep love. Stackable bands set with ruby and white diamonds are popular, as are bold cocktail rings and three-stone styles. It doesn’t have to be a ring, though. Drop earrings, ear climbers, and line bracelets set with ruby also make a statement of love.
Burmese Ruby Heart Pendant in 18K White and Yellow Gold.
Colombian Emearld with Double Halo in Platinum.
Colombian Emerald Pendant with Oval Emerald and Diamonds.
emerald
Emerald, which is suggested for anniversaries number 20 and 35, is upheld as a symbol of devotion, contentment, and undying love. The gem of enlightenment, emerald has a calming effect that clarifies insight. Emerald eternity bands have been the most popular anniversary gift, often set with fancy shapes and mixed with white diamonds. Other iconic designs include bold emerald rings and three-stone styles, as well as different earring treatments.
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pearls Pearls, which are suggested for anniversaries number 3 and 30, have a long history as a wedding gem, dating back to the early Hindus when Krishna gave his daughter a pearl on her wedding day. A symbol of romance and devotion, pearl’s love attraction was thought to be so strong that Cleopatra dissolved a pearl in wine and swallowed it to seduce Mark Antony. Pearls offer lots of options, from classic Akoya to bold South Sea to colorful, shapely freshwater varieties. Popular gifts include long pearl strands and necklaces that mix pearls with chain and other gems, as well as bespoke designs in drop earrings and standout rings.
Penny Preville Triple Drop Baroque South Sea Pearl Earrings on French Wire $3,685.
16” Freshwater Pearl Drop
Necklace with 0.51 carats of diamonds.
gold
Kwiat Cobblestone Interlocking
Gold i s suggested for anniversaries number 1 and 50. Embracing major milestones, from celebrating your first year to growing old together, gold celebrates your solid bond. Gold is a transitional metal, symbolic of flexibility and a quest for perfection. There are many gift options in gold jewelry, from lockets and charms to monograms, classic chain necklaces, and bracelets. For men, cuff links and accessories are also widely available in gold.
Pendant $3,550.
Monica Rich Kosann’s Sun, Moon and Stars Gate Locket $6,575.
Kwiat Clover Ring $2,390.
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [ 37
Charlotte Hire Date: 6-1-20 “little boss”
Gary Hire Date: 6-1-82 When not at work is most likely found on the golf course.
Dave Hire Date: 10-1-81 Enjoys traveling and hiking in the Laguna Canyon with his wife.
M eet TEAM the
Elsa Hire Date: 11-1-68
Marilynn Hire Date: 01-28-16 Favorite Gemstone: Padparadscha Sapphire.
Olga Hire Date: 10-27-11
Has had the pleasure and privilege of working with four generations of the Rubel Family.
Has two twin boys with their mother’s beautiful sparkling blue eyes.
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Claire Hire Date: 10-7-19 Grew up on a horse farm and loves riding.
Erica Hire Date: 07-23-18 Stand Up Paddle Boarder Extraordinaire.
Chien Hire Date: 11-7-99 Enjoys hiking and horseback riding.
Sarah Hire Date: 6-25-15 Avid baker specializing in macaroons.
Kavita Hire Date: 11-20-19 2018 Olympian competing in Figure Skating for her home country, Germany.
Lisa Hire Date: 3-1-13 Loves to travel the Caribbean.
Valerie Hire Date: 8-1-87 Loves wine!
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [ 39
history told
NEW LOOKS Engaging
IT IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO UNDERSTAND OUR HISTORY IN ORDER TO APPRECIATE HOW FAR WE’VE COME
In Medieval times, the engagement rings of the masses were plain bands, much like many wedding rings are today. Today most engagement rings symbolize a couple’s commitment to each other and their dedication to their future life together, but the tradition has not always been a promise of love. Initially they were given as a sign of ownership — often as part of a woman’s dowry — and demonstrated the wealth and influence attributed to the woman’s fiancé. The premarital giving and receiving of rings is a relatively recent trend, but one which has become popular in many cultures and is now the fashion worldwide.
It was the ancient Grecians who first exchanged betrothal rings to signify romantic attachment, but some believe the tradition originated in ancient Egypt where knots of hair and leather were woven into circles. Later examples of ancient Egyptian rings became much more intricate, but were still limited in design, and metal rings were reserved for wealthier couples. Tombs in Egypt have been uncovered which depict engagement bands set with gemstones, but even they would have been relatively crudely made, because the technology was then not advanced enough to create a smooth metal band.
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Jack Kelege The Imperial Silhouette Collection in 18K White Gold.
Jack Kelege Platinum and 14K Rose Gold Setting.
Jack Kelege’s Grace Collection with 0.65 carats of diamonds.
Others consider Turkish puzzle rings to be the dawn of the practice, though like many Roman betrothal rings, they were not symbols of a loving bond, but were considered more important for counteracting infidelity and illustrating ownership. When more ornate Roman rings were presented, it was as a sign that the woman’s fiancé trusted her with access to his wealth and possessions, as well as a sign of her hierarchical status within his social circle. Engagement was latterly deemed a legal promise, sealed not with a kiss but with a precious ring, which protected her from having her position usurped by a mistress or rival.
In Colonial America, thimbles, gloves, and other gifts were given in place of jewelry to symbolize a betrothal. Quakers believed jewelry to hold no moral value and, as such, considered it worthless and meretricious, even for an engagement. Despite this, when young Puritan women were gifted a thimble by their fiancé to help them sew garments for their dowry, they would often remove the bowl and wear the base as a ring, once they were married. After the ceremony, the thimble was regarded as having served its useful purpose, so refashioning it was an acceptable way of continuing to appreciate the gift.
Jack Kelege Platinum Wide Band with 3.40 carats of diamonds.
Jack Kelege Wide Band with 2.32 carats of diamonds $9,000.
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [ 41
Precision Set FlushFit Silk Prong Diamond Engagement Ring.
Precision Set Setting $1,600. Center Stone sold separately.
Precision Set New Air Solitaire.
Precision Set FlushFit Round Diamond Halo with Thin Diamond Shank.
In 860 AD Pope Nicholas I decreed that gold rings should be used for marriage and engagement, because they validated the financial commitment being made by the man to the woman. This doctrine was echoed again by Pope Innocent III in the 12th century, but these metals did not become attainable for the masses until much later. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the upper classes occasionally had gold or silver bands set with semi-precious gemstones, and the lower classes still swapped simple copper or iron rings.
Platinum has only been fashioned into jewelry throughout the last two-hundred years, and though its exclusivity has always been highly valued, it is still not an affordable setting for many couples. During World War II, platinum was prohibited for use in jewelry in the United States, even in engagement rings, due to its necessity for manufacturing munitions. During that period, white gold was created to simulate the crisp elegance of platinum and remains a popular choice for brides-to-be looking for a hard-wearing, contemporary engagement ring.
Precision Set Shared Prong Band.
Precision Set 7 Row Comfort Fit Halfway Band with 1.53 carats of diamonds $6,750.
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smaller
b y J E N N I F E R B R U G H
celbrations
a l l p h o t o g r a p h y b y G A R R E T T & A M B E R B A I R D A T E Y E N A M I C S
F
or engaged couples, 2020 has been a challenging year. Weddings dates suddenly shifted on the calendar, and honeymoons were put on hold, in some cases, for an entire year. While some couples chose to reschedule for 2021, others are taking advantage of the changing seasons and opting for smaller, more intimate ceremonies or microweddings. Vendors in the wedding industry are also noticing a shift to intimate ceremonies, including wedding filmmakers Garrette and Amber Baird. As owners of Eyenamics, the Bairds have created wedding videos for weddings of all sizes. Still, they expect the microweddings and minimonies to continue to gain popularity in the coming months for one specific reason: love. “We’re really digging the trend of microweddings, because I think people who do small, intimate weddings, really focus on the importance of the actual marriage and less on the frills of a wedding,” Amber says. “I love a big frilly wedding, but it seems like these small, intimate weddings are so special to the family and friends that are there.” Amber says that she’s also witnessed a spike in elopements, where couples choose to have a quiet, personal ceremony by themselves now, with the hopes of having a larger gathering and celebration later. The beauty of elopements is that couples can choose nearly any location or venue without spending a fortune for guests and can still be married on their original wedding dates. INTIMATE
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A CELEBRATION OF TRUE LOVE, REGARDLESS OF SIZE EVENTS
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [ 45
But, like almost everything associated with planning a wedding, these ceremonies, too, can come with their own set of challenges. “I feel like smaller weddings put a lot less stress on the bride,” Amber says. “But in some cases, it puts more stress on them because they have to cut guest lists,. It can be very daunting, when one aunt can come and others can’t. How do you choose your favorite aunt?” With a microwedding comes plenty of creativity. Some brides choose to wear lace or pearl studded masks, while others are providing individual monogrammed bottles of hand sanitizer for guests. Some have even moved their venues outdoors, away from enclosed spaces. Both Amber and Garrette foresee microweddings and elopements climbing in popularity, not just for the rest of 2020, but into 2021 as well. So no matter how big or small your wedding, remember that in the end, it’s always about the celebration of love.
Lazare Kaplan 3 Row Pavé Engagement Ring.
Kwiat 2 carat ASHOKA® Engagement Ring.
Nader Kash Wedding Bands in White and Rose Gold.
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happily ever after
WEDDING
SAMANTHA & BRONSON
ERIKA & NATHAN
JANE & SPENSER
ABBIE & ANDREW
BROOKE & REX
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BELLES
COURTNEY & JOHN
DIANA & SCOTT
MAYRA & ANTWONE
ELORA & EVAN
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [ 49
style guide
b y L O R I R O B E R T S
T R E N D I N G STYLE on RISE the Even in uncertain times, one thing holds true — fashion lives on! It evolves and changes from season to season to breathe new life into self-expression and the joy of wearing jewels. Here are some fresh new picks to liven up your winter wardrobe.
VIVID COLOR LOCKETS The Locket X Color collection is designed to bring happiness. Lockets by their very nature are empowering pieces of jewelry that allow us to be inspired by the stories they tell. Monica Rich Kosann uses a palette of colors that are both contemporary in their style and perfect shades to wear everyday. To make the colors more vibrant they combine them with 18k gold vermeil, the finest form of gold plating. Starting at $490 this is the perfect gift.
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Monica Rich Kosann Oval Locket with Scattered Diamonds.
Sapphire Infinity Locket $5,185.
UNDER LOCK(ET) & KEY The history of love locks dates back at least 100 years and is a symbol of unbreakable love.
The Heart Lock Collection.
DROP ME A LINE There’s something strong and confident about a sleek, linear drop, especially if it happens to be coated in diamonds. Earrings with the linear look can stretch clear to the collar bone for a high fashion flash; likewise a necklace can drop to disappear in your décolletage . Beyond those runway looks lie plenty of pretty options for everyday wear too. So go long or go home, as they say.
Caption: 24” Flat Link Toggle Necklace $3,590.
Memoire Diamond Line Classics with 1.11 carats of diamonds $2,895.
Roberto Coin Cento Drop Earrings.
Memoire Cascade Earrings in 18K Rose Gold.
F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [ 51
THE CHAIN GANG There’s no doubt about it, chains are a fashion staple and are here to stay in a big way. From sleek paper clip styles to massive chunky links, the options are endless. Sprinkling in a few diamonds makes them even better! Sterling silver stole the show for years, but yellow gold has a strong center stage presence, now.
26” Oval Link by Roberto Coin.
34” Y Chain by Roberto Coin $3,100.
The Marilyn Link Bracelet by Monica Rich Kosann.
HOOPS & LOOPS Hoop earrings have eternal appeal and come in every style and finish you can imagine. They can be filled on the inside and out with diamonds, have creative angles and settings, or have multiple hoops and loops. Loop styles are generally longer in length and contain various drops that create movement sure to turn heads.
Roberto Coin Perfect Diamond Hoops.
Memoire Imperial Hoops $1,795.
Penny Preville Wrap Around Hoop Earrings.
Kwiat Fidelity Hoops with 2.20 carats of diamonds.
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exotic appeal
b y B A R B A R A E . C O H E N
SMOOTH
SILK
as
F
rom the Silk Road to the racetrack, an air of mystery clings to this regal fiber, said to have been discovered by a Chinese empress when she accidentally dropped some silk cocoons into her tea. In China, silk was as valuable as gold, and bolts of silk were exchanged as gifts and used to pay taxes. As an exotic import, Chinese silk was so expensive in the West that it was reserved for royalty and people of substantial means. Any fabric that has the power to transform someone into either a ruler or a slacker deserves our respect. WHAT IS SILK? It takes about 1,000 silkworms eating 48 pounds of mulberry leaves to produce enough silk fiber for one silk shirt. Since the silkworm, which isn’t a worm at all but a caterpillar of the Bombyx mori moth, lives only about a month, it can be said to give its life for
silk. Each worm eats as many mulberry leaves as it can in its short life, bulking up to 10,000 times its hatched weight before it sets to work spinning its cocoon, from which it intends to emerge as a moth. Instead, its cocoon gets harvested and unwound, yielding a fiber as strong as steel, as supple as a hair, ready to accept bright dye, and more comfortable to wear than any other. Most silk comes from domesticated silkworms that have been selected for their extraordinary ability to produce long, strong threads. The price of silk reflects the fact that it takes approximately 5,500 silkworms to produce a kilogram (2.2 pounds) of raw silk. Because most silk is produced from domesticated moths, fabrics from silk derived from wild silkworms are usually clearly identified on a garment’s label. The price of garments from the cocoons of wild silkworms is usually high, reflecting the rarity of silk processed from wild species.
EDDIE ARCARO, THE FIRST AMERICAN JOCKEY TO RIDE FIVE KENTUCKY DERBY WINNERS AND TWO U.S. TRIPLE CROWN CHAMPIONS AND WHO PRESUMABLY KNEW A THING OR TWO ABOUT THE GLORY OF WEARING SILK TO WORK, QUIPPED THAT “ONCE A GUY STARTS WEARING SILK PAJAMAS, IT’S HARD TO GET UP EARLY.”
54 ] F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E
The ar i s tocrat of f ibers makes every man a king , every woman a queen.
SIGNS OF QUALITY: THE REEL DEAL Reeled silk, in which the cocoons have been unrolled, consists of fibers more than a mile long. The filament from as many as 10 cocoons are reeled together to give one long, strong strand. It’s that smooth, uninterrupted thread that gives silk its strength and makes it so comfortable to wear. But not all silk is createdequal.Cheaper silks canbemanufactured from cocoons that have been damaged by emerging silk moths, which have to dissolve sections of the cocoon to emerge because they have no teeth. The filaments from broken cocoons can be spun into thread, sometimes using a synthetic binding thread, as are the silk fibers shed during the spinning process. WHEN SILK SUITS Fabrics that result from reeled silk of cultivated Bombyx mori have a natural luster, drape, and durability suitable for everything from neckwear to shirts and suits. In combination with other fibers, silk offers comfort with wrinkle-resistance and long wear. Most terms for silk fabrics define both the weight of the fabric and the origins of the silk. Cultivated silk from China, Japan, Thailand, India, and South America is used for everything from undergarments to outerwear. Chiffon, today used primarily for scarves and sheer blouses, is a very light, almost transparent fabric. Delicate charmeuse, used for underwear and blouses, is a lightweight fabric that drapes well and has a semi-lustrous surface on one side and a dull finish on the other. Habutai, or China silk, means “soft as down” in Japanese and identifies a
fabric that is soft, lightweight, lustrous, and has a smooth surface. Dupioni describes a shimmering, moderately crisp fabric made from “double” silk threads drawn from double cocoons spun side- by-side, sometimes of two slightly different colors. For suits and jackets, designers favor heavier silk fabrics and silk blended with other fibers, such as wool. Silk shantung, once woven of wild silk from Shantung, China, now identifies a fabric popular for summer dresses and suits. Organdy and organza are stiff, plain-weave silk fabrics used to stiffen constructed garments because they retain their crispness through repeated washings. Tussah, made from wild silk, is usually more uneven, coarser, and stronger than cultivated silk; comes in a variety of naturally off- white to brown shades; and is usually blended with other fibers to increase the natural filament lengths. Silk noil — an uneven, nubby fabric — is a byproduct of spun silk. Because the fibers aren’t suitable for even, lustrous yarns, they are spun, sometimes with other fibers, to produce novelty yarns. SILK CARE Avoid spot cleaning silk with water. Applying water causes a ring to form when it comes in contact with serincin, a gummy substance occurring naturally in silk. For best results, follow the manufacturer’s care label sewn into each garment. Manufacturers usually recommend dry cleaning silk garments. But don’t overdo it; harsh chemicals can damage the natural silk fibers and reduce garment life.
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