A TUFTS COMMUNICATIONS FINE JEWELRY PUBLICATION
magazine
STYLE
FILES Hot Holiday Fashions DIAMOND DREAMS Beauty & Opulence ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT MASTER-II
AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2023 • ISSUE #15
FROM OUR FAMILY TO YOURS
MARKING YOUR MOMENTS Welcome to the 15th edition of Orr’s Jewelers Magazine !
G reetings! This holiday season, our showcases are filled with more diamonds, designer jewelry, and fine Swiss timepieces than ever before. And as you turn the pages of this year’s magazine, you’ll find a curated selection of some of our favorite pieces, hand-selected just for you. With so many celebrations to be had, it’s a great time to bundle up, get out, breathe in the crisp air, and take in all of the sights, sounds, and activities that our great city has to offer. The holidays are always an exciting time, and we have just what you’re
looking for, no matter the occasion! To find that perfect gift, we invite you to both Orr’s locations in Sewickley and Squirrel Hill to shop from our largest and newest selection of the year. We are so honored to be a part of your most personal holiday celebrations. Cheers and best wishes, David, Marcia, Leslie, Aliza, and the whole Orr’s Family
The Official Jeweler of the Pittsburgh Penguins ® .
PITTSBURGH LOCATION 5857 Forbes Avenue • Pittsburgh PA 15217 (412) 421-6777
SEWICKLEY LOCATION 532 Beaver Street • Sewickley, PA 15143 (412) 741-8080
WWW.ORRSROCKS.COM
CIALOMA
ORR’S JEWELERS MAGAZINE
CONTENTS
4 WELCOME from the Orr’s Jewelers family 10 ON LOCATION The Orr’s team goes shopping
12 PENNY PREVILLE Show your true colors
14 CRISP AND CLASSIC You can’t go wrong with a classic
34 SANTOS DE CARTIER An enduring classic shows its creative side
16 THINK PINK If it comes in pink, I want it
36 MARCO BICEGO ACADEMY Training the next generation of master goldsmiths 38 BREITLING TAPS ITS HERITAGE Revisiting the Premier and Duograph 40 PERPETUAL TIME One of watchmaking’s high complications 44 THE COSMOPOLITAN WATCH Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master-II 46 TUDOR BLACK BAY A perfect fit, whether vintage or modern 48 LOCAL TALENT Florabelle: custom florals & occasions 50 ANITA KO Our conversation with this exciting designer
18 DIAMOND DREAMS Where beauty and opulence meet 20 RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS Timeless beauty, enduring quality
22 ROLEX & THE OPEN Golf’s oldest major
24 LOVE STORIES Congratulations to these Orr’s couples
26 THE SYLVIE SHELL Elegance embodied in design
30 SHIMMER AND SHINE Gold and diamonds — the perfect match
32 GRAND COLOR The finest colored-stone jewelry
Todd Tufts • Publisher/Creative Director Lori Roberts • Senior Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Madison Frasinelli • Associat Editor Carol Besler • Editorial Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor
Prices are subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability. Orr’s Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 10012 Gulf Center Drive, Suite 5150 • Fort Myers, FL 33913 T: 765-819-2500 • E: todd@tuftscom.com © 2023, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
ORR’S BEHIND THE SCENES
ON LOCATION THE ORR’S TEAM GOES SHOPPING E ach year, we travel the world to source the loose diamonds, the latest watches, and the newest jewelry designs to bring back to Pittsburgh. David, Leslie, Aliza, and Britain did it all, with stops in Antwerp, New York, Geneva, and Las Vegas — and saw it all! We met with some of our favorite designers and made some time for some fun as well. We can’t wait to show you what we brought back to Pittsburgh, both on the pages of this magazine and in the cases at our stores in Sewickley and Squirrel Hill.
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WE’RE SCOURING THE WORLD FOR THE FINEST JEWELRY FASHIONS AND EXQUISITE TIMEPIECES AND BRINGING THEM TO YOU, RIGHT HERE IN PITTSBURGH.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
SHOW YOUR TRUE COLORS WITH
PENNY PREVILLE
C olor has its own unique language, with its own vocabulary. And like words, color evokes emotional energy. The meanings of colors vary widely, symbolically and emotionally, from culture to culture and from person to person. The colors we choose to surround ourselves in our environment play a huge role in how we feel. Penny Preville’s newest designs embrace and delight in the passion and power of color in our everyday world. Diamond clusters of all sizes are also gracefully placed, adding unique and enticing texture to some of your favorite pieces. Convertible earrings and pendants give each woman ultimate wearability — allowing her to style any look the way she wants, day or night. Whether it’s grazing the neckline, dangling elegantly from the ear, or completing a wrist stack, Penny’s collections inspire every woman to express her unique style in full color.
Clockwise from top left: Diamond and 18k white gold Stardust hoops Ombre blue sapphire and diamond Stardust necklace Ombre blue sapphire and diamond Stardust band ring Ombre blue sapphire Stardust hoops Diamond and blue sapphire bypass bracelet
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
CRISP AND CLASSIC
YOU CAN’T GO WRONG WITH A CLASSIC, AND FOR WATCHES, THAT MEANS WHITE.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph
Breitling Chronomat 40
There is something refreshing about the purity of a crisp, white dial on a watch. What was once a standard color for watch faces stands out now more than ever, as the trend toward color in the luxury watch world reaches its peak. The top brands have been wowing us this year with everything from Barbiecore pink to timely turquoise, and suddenly, a white dial looks new and fresh, even though it has always been the preferred color. White is quite simply classic. It is perfect for dressing up or kicking back. White elevates a sport watch to new heights, making it stand out at either the office or the race track.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco
Panerai Luminor Quaranta
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NOW TRENDING
think
IF IT COMES IN PINK, I WANT IT.
Who runs the world? Girls! With Barbie sweeping not only the box office, but the nation this year, it’s no surprise that the color pink has soared to the top in all things jewelry, too. Look for pink dial watches to sapphires in every shade of light, medium, and deep dark magenta. Lavender blends nicely for ombre looks and pink pairs well with both white and yellow gold tones. Is pink the new black? Join us, because it just may be.
Top to bottom: Frederic Sage pink sapphire and diamond necklace Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy Octavia Elizabeth pink tourmaline ring Ippolita pink sapphire Stardust band Octavia Elizabeth pink parachute bracelet Oscar Heyman sapphire, tourmaline and diamond bracelet Omi Prive pink and purple sapphire bracelet
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SPARKLING
BY JENNIFER BRUGH
SENSATIONS
W ith every sparkle and shimmer, diamonds are a dream come true. These precious stones take center stage, no matter their form or fashion. From breathtaking necklaces that cascade like liquid moonlight to mesmerizing earrings that whisper secrets of seduction, each jewel is a testament to the artistry and passion that goes into crafting these precious treasures. diamond Dreams WHERE BEAUTY & OPULENCE MEET
Clockwise from top: 18K White Gold round diamond tennis necklace Rahaminov Moval diamond ring with half moon side diamonds Four prong diamond studs JB Star Platinum 3 Row oval diamond east-west set band
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SO, COME ALONG AS WE HIGHLIGHT SOME OF OUR MOST SPELLBINDING DIAMOND JEWELRY THAT RADIATES SENSUALITY, ENCHANTMENT AND IRRESISTIBLE ALLURE TO FULFILL YOUR WILDEST DREAMS.
Top to bottom: JB Star Platinum Oval Diamond Ring with side Espaulet cut diamonds Pomellato 18k White Gold Iconica diamond ring Roberto Coin 18k White Gold Love in Verona diamond bangle bracelet Rahaminov 18k White Gold GIA-certified round diamond tennis bracelet JB Star Platinum pear cut, oval cut, and round diamond hoops
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
BY REBECCA VERMA
RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS TIMELESS BEAUTY, ENDURING QUALITY F ounded over 80 years ago as a diamond cutter, Rahaminov Diamonds has become one of the most revered diamond houses in the world. Not only is its quality impeccable, but Rahaminov has a vast assortment of gorgeous natural white and fancy colored loose diamonds, along with finished jewelry. Celebrities and jewelry lovers alike have fallen in love with Rahaminov Diamonds creations.
This one-of-a-kind Toi-et-Moi ring features two incredibly rare GIA certified natural colored diamonds. A 2.01 carat fancy greenish yellow radiant cut pairs perfectly with a 1.30 carat fancy orange pink, set in 18 karat gold, for a truly spectacular and unique treasure.
Rahaminov pieces are timeless. They have an elegance that is always in fashion. Each piece of jewelry is created around a particular stone, according to the Rahaminov motto: “Where the diamond inspires the design.” Designer and co-founder Tamara Rahaminov Goldfiner is patient with each gem, waiting for inspiration to guide her to create the perfect piece. Every design is a genuine labor of love.
Top to bottom: Bar pendant with graduated round diamonds Moval diamond cluster ring Pear shaped diamond tennis bracelet
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TIME ZONE
ROLEX & THE OPEN: GOLF’S OLDEST MAJOR
Traditionally contested in the United Kingdom during the third week of July, The Open is the fourth and final men’s Major. Associated with this competition since 1981, Rolex is today a privileged partner of world golf.
Finding success at The Open Clockwise from top left: Rolex Testimonees have enjoyed their share of success at The Open, with Tom Watson claiming five titles, Jack Nicklaus (3), Arnold Palmer (2), Gary Player (3), Jordan Spieth (1) and Tiger Woods (3) among those to have celebrated victory by lifting the tournament’s Claret Jug trophy.
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T he partnership between Rolex and golf began in 1967 when Arnold Palmer became the sport’s first Testimonee. Since then, the brand has become Official Timekeeper and is a principal partner of many leading events and stakeholders in the game. Inaugurated in 1860, The Open is played every year on a rotating roster of historical courses in the United Kingdom. The 151st edition takes place at Royal Liverpool Golf Club. A renowned course Located on the shores of the Irish Sea, the course first played host to the tournament in 1897, with this year marking the 13th time it stages golf’s original Championship. Rolex Testimonee Tiger Woods won his third Open there in 2006.
In 2022, The Open returned to St Andrews, the Home of Golf, on the occasion of its 150th edition.
best woman golfer on the Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA) circuit; and the Rolex Junior Players of the Year awards, which honor players aged 18 or younger, boy and girl, who perform best in a given season. Undeniably, Rolex has become the partner watch of world golf.
Walter Hagen in the 1920s to the battle between Tom Watson and Jack Nicklaus in 1977, or the tears of Tiger Woods upon winning his third trophy in 2006.
Rolex and golf: partners for more than half a century
Rolex Testimonees and The Open
Steeped in elegance and tradition
Rolex enjoys a privileged relationship with golf, one founded on shared values: respect for tradition, responsibility, technical precision, the elegance of movement, the perpetual quest for excellence and a commitment to future generations. Today, the partnership between Rolex and golf extends to many areas of the sport: with governing bodies and world rankings, with the greatest names in international golf, and with the Major tournaments and global circuits — both men’s and women’s, professional and amateur, at senior and junior levels. Moreover, the brand has also championed the creation of: the Rolex Series, the finest tournaments on the DP World Tour; the Rolex Player of the Year Award which recognizes the
Among the many great golfers who belong to the prestigious family of Rolex Testimonees, several have won The Open: Gary Player, Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus, Tom Watson, Tiger Woods, Jordan Spieth, Francesco Molinari, and Collin Morikawa.
Tradition has it that The Open is always played on a links course; that is, one located by the sea, featuring sandy soil and few water hazards or trees. Unpredictable weather conditions mean the 156 players competing in the tournament each year need their fair share of fighting spirit, self- control, and humility given the potential for heavy showers, strong wind gusts, and even heatwave conditions. Unforgettable moments With its unique past, the wild beauty of the coastal courses where it is played and its knowledgeable fans, The Open is forever etched in the history of world sport — from the duels of Bobby Jones and
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HAPPILY EVER AFTER
IT IS OUR PRIVILEGE TO HAVE
PLAYED A ROLE IN YOUR BIGGEST MOMENTS
Ashlyn Kettering & Michael Hoesch Fenwick Island, DE
Georin Aquila & Mikey Hood
Julia Scamardi & Noah Bussard
Lizzie Miller & Conor McKenna Chicago, IL
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Lexie Chernalis & Jay Healey Highland Beach, Florida
Dan and Sareeta
Ally Patterson & Clayton Krol Harmony, PA
Miranda & Stephen Pavasko Downtown Pittsburgh
Ryan and Jordan
Kristin & Chad Limbruner Pittsburgh Botanic Garden
Shannon Langton & Rj Rigatti Nemacolin Resort, PA
Kelli Ann & Ben
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
THE SYLVIE SHELL
ELEGANCE EMBODIED IN DESIGN
E ngagement ring and jewelry designer, Sylvie, has created a concept that adds another layer of significance to the world’s most enduring symbol of love and commitment. The company’s signature Sylvie Shell design is created by seamlessly connecting the ring’s shank to the setting that surrounds the diamond, representing two souls forming an eternal bond together as one. The unique shell shape created in the negative space inside the ring’s shank recalls Sandro Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, a painting depicting the arrival of Venus, goddess of love and beauty. The glow of intense light radiating from the shell in Botticelli’s painting is repeated in the shower of light radiating from the ring’s center diamond. The Sylvie Shell collection celebrates every bride standing on the cusp of a new phase of her life, one that is full of promise and hope. It is a daily reminder of the strength, energy, and positivity that radiates light to every corner of their lives.
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sylviejewelry.com
NOW TRENDING
shimmer and shine When you take diamonds + beautiful jewelry designs of yellow gold, the equation equals pure perfection! Bright like the sun, yellow gold has warm hues that complement every skin tone. Perfect for winter, yellow gold looks great against darker colors and those soft fuzzy sweaters we love this time of year. Yellow gold offers diamonds the perfect playground — a smooth finish, so the contrasting white diamonds can shimmer and shine with your every step. GOLD AND DIAMONDS — THE PERFECT MATCH
Top to bottom: Phillips House Infinity pendant Roberto Coin Princess Flower pave diamond pendant Anita Ko pave diamond safety pin earring Octavia Elizabeth bezel set diamond studs Phillips House Infinity loop stud earrings 18k yellow gold and diamond cuff bracelet 18k yellow gold tennis bracelet Rahaminov Diamonds diamond star bracelet
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NOW TRENDING
color GRAND
W ant to make a splash? Brightly colored gemstones are a perfect way to stand out from the crowd! We source the finest colored-stone jewelry from designers like Omi Prive and Oscar Heyman — from sapphires to emeralds to tourmalines and beyond! This year, David, Leslie, and Aliza even had the opportunity to visit the Oscar Heyman offices in New York City, where they got a personal tour from Tom Heyman and visited the jewelers’ shop, where each piece of Oscar Heyman jewelry is handmade. David selected the bracelet shown below based on a sketch and the loose gemstone layout, and the finished product arrived in Pittsburgh and is even better in person.
Top to bottom: Oscar Heyman sapphire, tourmaline and diamond studs Omi Prive blue zircon and green tourmaline ring JB STAR fancy yellow radiant cut diamond ring Oscar Heyman diamond and multi-colored sapphire bracelet
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
SANTOS DE CARTIER ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST VERSATILE WATCH DESIGNS SHOWS ITS CREATIVE SIDE. an enduring classic
T he Cartier Santos is one of the great classics of watch design, always appropriate for any occasion. It is also highly adaptable to various design interpretations, which is the great genius of Cartier’s watch collections. The Santos was famously created in 1904 — which makes it one of the earliest wristwatches on record — by Louis Cartier for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos didn’t want to have to dig for a pocket watch to navigate his flight legs, so he asked Louis to create a strap model. Since then, the Santos has evolved to become one of Cartier’s most beloved models, as much a signature of the brand as the Tank and the Panther. There have been many modern iterations since it made its first appearance more than a century ago, but the essential rounded square case, Roman numerals, and eight exposed screws on the bezel have endured. Here are some modern versions that we love, with state-of-the- art movements, materials, and design variations.
SANTOS DE CARTIER SKELETON Skeletonizing a movement involves cutting away a portion of the dial, plate, and bridges so that only the bare essentials are left, and the movement is exposed for our viewing pleasure. Cartier’s unique version of this art form is to shape the bridges in the style of Roman numerals, a signature element of the brand. The steel bracelet is interchangeable with an alligator strap, which comes with it. It contains the manual wound caliber 9611.
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GOLD SANTOS DE CARTIER There are few watches more iconic than the yellow gold Santos de Cartier. It is about as classic as a dress watch can get, with the model’s signature Roman numerals, railway chapter ring, blued steel hands, and seven-sided crown. The case is a hefty 39.8 mm wide and 9.38 mm thick, and it is water resistant to 100 meters. It contains the automatic caliber 1847 MC.
SANTOS DE CARTIER STEEL Green dials started to appear on watches a few years ago when Pantone named it the color of the year and made it representative of all things ecological. It also just happens to look great on the wrist. On the steel Santos, it adds a pop of color to an otherwise classic aesthetic, which stands out even more when the steel bracelet is swapped out for the green alligator strap that comes with it.
SANTOS DE CARTIER CHRONOGRAPH When it comes to sports watches, even Cartier, with its classic Roman-numeral dial design, subscribes to the motto, “go big or go home.” This powerful chronograph, with the automatic 1904 CH MC caliber, is 43.3 mm wide and 12.4 mm thick. The blackened steel bracelet matches the bezel, but it can be swapped out for a black rubber or black “Gomma” alligator strap, thanks to Cartier’s QuickSwitch strap-change system.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
BY JENNIFER BRUGH
MARCO BICEGO ACADEMY
M arco Bicego, the renowned Italian fine jewelry brand celebrated for its nature- inspired collections, has embarked on an extraordinary new journey: the Marco Bicego Academy, a prestigious training program designed to nurture and develop new master goldsmiths and professional jewelry artisans. This unique initiative combines formal classroom teaching, structured hands-on training, and personalized coaching to enhance the brand’s specialized production capacity and create a legacy for generations to come. In collaboration with recruitment agency Gi Group and the Vicenza Professional School of Art and Crafts, the academy has initiated a comprehensive artisan recruiting and selection process to identify talented individuals to learn the revered craft of goldsmithing. Throughout an intensive and immersive 120-hour training program, artisans learn and develop their handcrafting skills under careful guidance from the industry’s finest. By passing on this old-world technique to the next generation, Marco Bicego is enshrining its heritage and influencing jewelry-making for decades. “The importance of learning and mastering a craft seems to be a recommendation from the past,” says Marco Bicego, founder and creative director of the eponymous brand. “Instead, it is very current, and it can be prestigious.”
Marco Bicego, founder and creative director.
TRAINING THE NEXT GENERATION OF MASTER GOLDSMITHS
“We have launched this academy to enhance the quality of our work and make our territory attractive again,” he says. “It is part of our mission to preserve and elevate historical savoir-faire, supporting the bond with our local community and the territory where our goldsmith tradition originates.”
Skillful and meticulous, a Marco Bicego master
goldsmith hand engraves the fine, brushed texture onto a gold jewelry piece.
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
BREITLING
taps its heritage
REVISITING THE PREMIER, DUOGRAPH, AND AVI
M ost Swiss luxury watches are inspired by vintage pieces that hail from the days when watchmakers in the Swiss Jura mountains invented everything that still counts as the foundation of mechanical watchmaking. Most top brands have catalogs rooted in this heritage. A great example of a brand whose modern timepieces are inspired by the past is Breitling, and the Premier Duograph is one
of its most important new releases. First introduced in 1943, the Premier was one of the first chronograph watches made for the public rather than for pilots and military professionals. The Premier Duograph was one of the earliest rattrapante chronographs designed for the wrist. Breitling decided to relaunch the Duograph to celebrate this complex complication. The new Duograph is a modern interpretation of the original, with technical updates, including an in-house movement, the Breitling B15. The Premier B01 Chronograph is another modernized heritage piece from the brand. In 1943, Breitling decided to create a chronograph that was not only a tool watch but also a style statement. The result was the Premier, and it was a hit. Reintroduced by Breitling in 2021, the Premier Heritage chronograph collection revived the elegant, wrist-friendly model. This year, Breitling added six new references to the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 collection, all newly powered by the self-winding Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. They include new dial shades in salmon, blue, green, black, and cream, and a choice of alligator leather straps or seven-row metal bracelets. Breitling preserved distinctive vintage- Premier design details, including the smooth fixed bezel, twin-register dial, streamlined rectangular pushers, and applied Arabic numerals.
Premier B15 Duograph 42.
Premier B01 Chronograph 42.
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TIME ZONE
PERPETUAL TIME
The perpetual calendar is one of watchmaking’s high complications, and it has always been highly sought after by collectors. This popularity is partly because of the sheer complexity of the movement — it takes a skilled master watchmaker to assemble one, something that connoisseurs appreciate — and partly because it is such a useful complication. It displays day, date, month, year, and leap year, and doesn’t need adjusting for 122 years, hence the moniker perpetual. An annual calendar, by comparison, needs to be adjusted once a year at the end of February, and a simple calendar has to be updated every month of 30 or 31 days, plus February. The only caveat: don’t forget to wind your perpetual calendar or you’ll have to reset it.
Counter-clockwise from top: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Jaeger-leCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Jaeger-leCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42
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EXPECT THE EXCEPTIONAL
omiprive.com
TIME ZONE
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
THE COSMOPOLITAN WATCH
The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is designed to display the time in two different time zones simultaneously. Robust and functional, it is the ideal watch for criss-crossing the globe.
BORN TO TRAVEL With its two time-zone display, the GMT-Master, launched in 1955, was originally developed as a navigation instrument for professionals criss-crossing the globe. Heir to the original model, the GMT-Master II was unveiled in 1982 with a new movement ensuring ease of use. Its combination of peerless functionality, robustness, and distinctive aesthetics made it an icon.
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L aunched in 1955, the GMT-Master witnessed the rapid expansion of intercontinental travel in the latter half of the 20th century. It even became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, the most prominent American international airline at the time. The GMT-Master, a true “tool watch”, evolved continually, to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex introduced a new movement that allowed the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands. To clearly mark this evolution, the model fitted with the optimized movement was named the GMT-Master II.
OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II 40 mm, Oystersteel, black lacquer dial, bidirectional rotatable bezel fitted with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic, Oyster bracelet, calibre 3285.
The GMT-Master II has an instantly recognizable design with a graduated bezel, which is available in dual-color combinations.
One instrument, several time zones
The GMT-Master II has an instantly recognizable design with a graduated bezel insert, which is available in various dual-color combinations — the lower half symbolizing daytime and the upper signalling night-time. With traditional hour, minute, and seconds hands, its triangle-tipped 24-hour hand and bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and the reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The latest GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, it offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks, convenience, and reliability. It is fitted with the exclusive blue Parachrom hairspring and also incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement. The movement’s power reserve extends to approximately 70 hours.
monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic — a color pairing never before seen on the model.
High-technology ceramic The Cerachrom bezel insert is manufactured in a single piece by Rolex from extremely hard ceramic. This high-tech material is virtually scratchproof and keeps its vibrant colors over time. Rolex broke new ground in 2013 when it introduced its first two-color, single-piece ceramic bezel insert — blue on one half and black on the other. One year later, the brand released the two-color Cerachrom insert in red and blue — the GMT- Master’s original colors. It carried out pioneering research to develop a red ceramic corresponding to its aesthetic and quality criteria. In 2022, Rolex unveiled a novel version of the GMT-Master II. On this watch, the crown and crown guard are on the left side of the case. The date aperture and the Cyclops lens have also moved and appear at 9 o’clock. Made from Oystersteel, this watch features a two-color
Superlative chronometer certification
Like all Rolex watches, the GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chrono-meter certification. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories, according to its own criteria. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
TUDOR BLACK BAY A PERFECT FIT , WHETHER VINTAGE 37 MM OR MODERN 41 MM
W hen auction house Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, sold Paul Newman’s 1964-made Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 for a record $17.7-million in 2017, it set off a vintage obsession that has yet to subside. That watch was 37 mm, and it set a new modern standard for sizing in a watch. Smaller watches have since become mainstream, and this year, the trend continues. At the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva earlier this year, brands introduced a slew of vintage and neo-vintage revivals in diameter sizes ranging from 35 mm to 40 mm recalling vintage models. One of those brands was Tudor, the sister brand to Rolex. It launched a Black Bay 54 diver’s watch with elements from the 1954 original, including its 37 mm size. In case you’re thinking that’s a small size for a man, remember that the original Black Bay dive watch, in that size, was used by the French and U.S. navies. Modern touches to the re-edition include an automatic in-house movement, caliber MT5400 with a 70-hour power reserve, and Super-LumiNova highlights on the hands and markers to make them glow in the dark. It is water resistant to 200 meters. When the modern version of the Tudor Black Bay was launched in 2016, it had a burgundy bezel and a 41 mm case. After several iterations since then, the newest model revisits the iconic burgundy bezel and case proportions, but there is one big difference: it contains an evolved, elite movement that is tested according to METAS Master Chronometer certification standards. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 /+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4 /+6) carried out on a single movement. Also, it must guarantee that accuracy in the presence of magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. The caliber MT5602-U meets all these criteria and has a power reserve of 70 hours. Another modern touch on this vintage-style watch is the Tudor T-fit clasp on its rubber strap or steel bracelet, which is equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment in five positions. Tudor also introduced its Black Bay 31/36/39/41 (those represent all the size options, in millimeters) in a few new colors this year. The options now include blue, anthracite, and light champagne colored. On each one, the five-link bracelet comes with the T-fit clasp for a perfect fit. It’s almost like getting a watch custom made for you!
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LOCAL TALENT
I’ve designed exquisite events for 10 to over 1,000 guests, from private residences to the Supreme Court, the Kennedy Center, the State Department, to the beach. No matter the venue, flowers will transform the space, whether it’s an intimate family dinner or a large celebration. Carrie Beynon
438 Beaver Street Sewickley, PA 15143 Telephone: 202-445-5062
• custom floral designs for corporate and private events • local daily deliveries to Sewickley and the surrounding area • floral design workshops
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
ANITA KO A conversation with designer
How did you first discover your passion for jewelry design, and what led you to pursue it as a career? I discovered my passion for jewelry at a young age, around seven or eight. I would beg my parents to take me to the jewelry center so I could make my own gem stone pieces in blue topaz and amethyst. I would always play dress up in my mother’s and grandmother’s jewelry.
What sources of inspiration do you draw upon when conceptualizing a new jewelry collection or piece?
When I conceptualize a new collection it’s very important that it represents Los Angeles — the energy, the glamour, the cool factor — so I feel very connected to my environment. My lifestyle of being raised in Los Angeles is where I draw my inspiration —the sun, the beach, the
Bel Air grandmothers, the rockers on Sunset, the surfers, the movie stars, the cool girls, the palm trees, and everything in between.
What challenges have you faced in your career as a jewelry designer, and how did you overcome them? When I started in the business
I was a young woman in my early twenties in a male dominated world. That in itself is challenging, but I worked hard, paid my bills, and was eager to learn.
I earned respect, and I learned very early on that your character and being a trustworthy person are everything in our business.
What advice would you offer to emerging jewelry designers looking to establish themselves in the industry? I would say don’t give up if you truly love designing. Keep pushing and believe in yourself. Build a community of other designers to motivate and support you. Work really hard and be organized, precise, and diligent. Maintain a sense of humor and make and maintain relationships —they go a long way. Finally, what do you hope people experience or feel when they wear your jewelry, and what satisfaction do you derive from your work as a jewelry designer? I hope people feel positive energy. I want them to feel beautiful, cool, sexy, and strong. I want it to enhance a person’s life and hope they create lifetime memories that bring a smile. Everything I do is dedicated to this purpose of bringing happiness, strength, and love to someone’s life.
50 ORR’S JEWELERS MAGAZINE
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