A TUFTS COMMUNICATIONS FINE JEWELRY PUBLICATION
JEWELERS MAGAZINE
THE STYLE FILES Fashion Forward + Fabulous
ROBERTO COIN Italian Master Designer
CARTIER PRIVÉ TANK NORMALE
AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2023 • ISSUE 5
LOVE IN VERONA
HELLER JEWELERS MAGAZINE
12
CONTENTS
LET’S GET SOCIAL
9
WELCOME
11
THE STYLE FILES
12
ROBERTO COIN
18
HULCHI BELLUNI
22
PASQUALE BRUNI 24 CRAFTING TIMELESS ELEGANCE 25 A FOREVER KIND OF LOVE 26 THE DAY 28 A MEANINGFUL MIX 31 DIAMOND FACTS 32 ROLEX 34 TUDOR BLACK BAY 40 JERRY SEINFELD’S PORSCHE 42 CARTIER TANK NORMALE 44 SUSHI SENSATIONS 46 HALLMARKS OF LUXURY 48 TAG HEUER 50
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44
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director
Lori Roberts • Associate Editor
Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer
Carol Besler • Editorial Director
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor
Bart Gorin • Select Jewelry Photography
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Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.
Heller Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 10012 Gulf Center Drive, Suite 5150 • Fort Myers, FL 33913 T: 765-819-2500 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2023, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
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WITH GRATITUDE
We know how fortunate we are to play an important role in the most celebratory moments of your lives. The Heller family is pleased to present our 2023-2024 Magazine. Our year has been filled with momentous occasions, including the celebration of a wedding and welcoming a new baby. We love sharing milestones like these with you, and helping you find the perfect way to commemorate your own meaningful moments. We invite you to visit our showroom in the lively heart of San Ramon at City Center Bishop Ranch, where we offer an unmatched shopping experience, a stunning selection of fine jewelry and the superb Heller hospitality you’re accustomed to. From birthdays to anniversaries, engagements, weddings and everything in between, we’re here to make your moments sparkle. We look forward to helping you celebrate all of this year’s joyful occasions.
Best wishes from our family to yours, Scott, Catherine, and the entire Heller Jewelers family
6000 BOLLINGER CANYON ROAD • SUITE 1506 • SAN RAMON, CALIFORNIA 94583 CALL: (925) 904-0200 • TEXT: (925) 904-0200 • info@hellerjewelers.com
NOW TRENDING
BY LORI ROBERTS
the
style
FASHION FORWARD + FABULOUS
files
We work with leading designers across the globe to forecast the most popular trends and be the first to bring you the front-running styles.
stack ‘em up!
More is more has been a strong jewelry trend for a few years and shows no signs of slowing down. It’s so fun to grab different bracelets and rings and wear them all together. You have a style of your own, so let it shine through loud and clear with your signature stack. Rings or bracelets or layers of necklaces in just the right combination let you experiment with your jewelry. Mix in the latest options to change up your look or add just the right hint of color, texture, or shape. Rules don’t apply, so go for it!
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ENERGIZE YOUR MOOD WITH A GORGEOUS POP OF COLOR
There is no greater expression of your personal style than the accessories you choose. Picture this: you pull on an oversized navy sweatshirt and matching yoga pants (don’t judge, it’s chilly out!). Go ahead and throw your hair up in a messy bun, too. Got a visual? But before you leave your closet, grab a little choker-length necklace and a yellow gold long-link chain. Then a pair of diamond stud earrings and a big chunky aquamarine ring to wear on your middle finger - now how do those yoga pants look? You have style! And every day, you are empowered to choose it for yourself.
go big
or go home Color is the biggest story in fashion, and big, vibrant colorful gemstones are some of the season’s most sought after pieces. Like a kid in a candy store, you can gaze through all of the different colors and interesting shapes we have in our collection. Some gems, like birthstones, can hold very special defined meanings, while others, like a blue topaz, may spark a memory of the crystal blue waters of the Caribbean.
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NOW TRENDING
oh so
fancy!
Round brilliant diamonds, make way for your fancy cut friends. It’s time to update classic everyday diamond jewelry styles and make them feel all new. Try on an all pear-shaped or marquis-cut tennis bracelet. Pop on a pair of pear-cut drop earrings, or try an heart-shaped pendant. Fancy cut diamonds are no longer reserved just for engagement rings; they’re everywhere!
elevated
essentials
Could your wardrobe use a little elevating? Then you need some new essentials – Elevated Essentials, if you will. We’re talking everything from diamond tennis bracelets to a pair of diamond hoops. Now, diamond fashion rings—those are your flair pieces, your convo starters, your “check out my bling and let’s talk about it” accessories. Effortlessly elevate any outfit from “meh” to “yaaas!” in zero seconds flat with something that shimmers with every turn.
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“WHERE FLOWERS BLOOM SO DOES HOPE. ”
nature
–LADY BIRD JOHNSON
lover
Artists of all kinds draw inspiration from nature and this is especially true of jewelry designers. Karat gold is the perfect palette for colorful gemstones that remind us of the deep blue sea, majestic evergreens or even gems that mimic the shape of a raindrop. Floral motifs, leaves and insects are also popular whimsical signs of nature beautifully reflected in rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Connect with nature and show your appreciation for the many things of beauty that surround us.
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NOW TRENDING
get in
the mix
Taking a cue from the popularity of textures, we are now seeing a mix of different diamond cuts in single pieces of jewelry. Looks are organic, like different shapes sprinkled onto a ring, or diamonds puzzled together side by side. Beautiful and creative, for those who really like a unique style.
“ JEWELRY HAS THE POWER TO BE THE ONE LITTLE THING THAT MAKES YOU UNIQUE . ”
–ELIZABETH TAYLOR
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symbolic
& sweet
Hearts and butterflies — both aflutter and full of whimsical meaning. Hearts = love, of course, so there is no mistaking the aura when you spot the Italian corazone gracefully hanging close to the skin. Butterflies — mesmerizing to watch, lighter than a feather, colorful, and delicately beautiful — are symbolic of new life and rebirth. Both provoke feelings of happiness, and a little happiness can go a long way.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
BY CAROL BESLER
THE ROMANTIC, TWISTED, COLORFUL DESIGNS OF AN ITALIAN MASTER ROBERTO COIN
R oberto Coin, the maestro of Italian jewelry design, has a way of putting a new twist on his most beloved collections, with hundreds of new designs every year that complement and build on previous favorites. This year, he adds a literal twist to his Love in Verona collection, with new pieces incorporating a twisted gold motif — perhaps reflecting the twisted fate of the Verona lovers, Romeo and Juliet, who inspired the collection. Roberto has added diamonds to some of the pieces, either in the form of pavé on rings and bangles or lined up riviera-style on classic line or Y necklaces. In some pieces, diamonds form the petals of the signature four- petal flower motif.
The rectangular elements of Roberto’s Domino collection were inspired by the pieces used in the Chinese game of the same name, with repeated elements that symbolically trigger the domino effect. Gold and diamonds certainly elevate the game, making every wearer a winner!
“FASHION IS CHANGEABLE. IT IS WHIMSICAL. STYLE IS NOT. STYLE IS PART OF US, OF OUR LIFE, IN EVERY MOMENT AND EVERY EXPRESSION.” ~ Roberto Coin
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The Cialoma collection is also inspired by tragic romance. The name comes from an old Sicilian ballad about a sailor who is torn between his love for a woman and his love of the sea. The collection has a nautical theme, with a sailor’s knot motif running through it. New pieces include open links and open-style cuffs and rings, which can be worn with flattened knots facing in or out. Of course, there are plenty of diamond accents, because what’s a love story without diamonds?
Again this year, Roberto was inspired by the culture and climate of the Navarre region of northern Spain, a beautiful area dotted with vineyards and olive groves, charming villages, and Gothic cathedrals. The Navarra Collection is classic yet modern, in the same way that Navarre is a mix of modern and ancient cultures. It is based on a distinctive pattern of intertwined solid links, interpreted as gorgeous gold bangles trimmed with diamonds or lariat-style necklaces with ruby- trimmed toggle clasps. The collection is modeled after traditional links but styled for a new millennium.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
ROBERTO’S MISSION IS TO CREATE
JEWELRY THAT CONTINUALLY REWRITES THE CODES OF ELEGANCE.
A piece of jewelry from Roberto Coin is more than just an ornament. His collections are inspired by Roman Baroque and Venetian Gothic architecture, by the flowers in his garden, by world cultures, fashion, the women who wear his jewelry, and by the possibilities of jewelry design itself. The Venetian Princess Collection offers one captivating variation after another of the delicate central floral motif. It could be a brushed finish, a polished surface, twisted gold wire at the borders, diamonds on the inner petals, mother-of-pearl, or even a touch of malachite or black jade. The interpretations are as endless as the imagination of the designer. The timeless combination of black and white diamonds elevate this collection by Roberto Coin to something irresistibly elegant, with an intriguing edge.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
HULCHI
BEAUTY IN BALANCE
BELLUNI
M artine Hul had a dream of creating feminine and wearable jewelery. Fueled by her beliefs in harmony and the Chinese philosophy of Feng Shui, she launched her first collection in 2001, and Hulchi Belluni was born. Hul’s 20 years of experience, united with her own distinguished style, sparkling energy, and effervescent creativity, allow her to add a unique value to every piece of jewelery she designs, guided by the principles of this traditional Chinese practice. The positive Chi energy around which Feng Shui is centered, brings harmony and balance to her designs, so that they present a visible, balanced interaction between
all five elements: wood, fire, water, earth, and metal. A Hulchi Belluni creation bubbles with lively energy (wood), it blazes and radiates power (fire), yet it is quenched by organic and wavy features (water) and makes romance (earth) overflow in peace and luxuriousness (metal). You can feel the jewels radiate Chi, the positive energy which blissfully brings balance to your body. Your love glitters and shines like a Hulchi Belluni — this jewel born out of love. If you bring all elements in your life into balance, they will radiate with positive energy; they will radiate with Chi.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
BY CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR
ICONIC
ITALIAN LUXURY
T here is a certain flair to a piece of jewelry created by Pasquale Bruni: the swooping curve of diamond- encrusted gold flower that is sculpted to perfection to portray a petal or a leaf on the vine, or intricate facets on a piece of green agate or mother-of-pearl that transform a hard stone into a bold, glittering jewel with perfectly placed diamond highlights. It is the kind of creativity that happens when a family of jewelers, designers, and gemologists are given free rein to explore the limits of their imagination, executing their designs to a standard of craftsmanship that is often forgotten. PASQUALE BRUNI
Pasquale Bruni draws on his Italian roots to create jewelry that is a contemporary blend of art and design. It all began in 1976 when 20-year-old Bruni founded his workshop in Valenza, Italy. Today, he is joined by his daughter Eugenia, who serves as creative director, and son Daniele, a gemologist who serves as president of the US subsidiary. One of the brand’s most iconic collections is Giardini Segreti, which is designed to embrace a woman’s femininity. Giardini Segreti takes us into the secret garden of life, with graceful leaves and flowers, inspired by the gardens of Milan. Crafted in 18k rose or white gold, set with diamonds, it includes chokers, bracelets, ear cuffs, and pendant earrings. Petite Joli is another floral themed collection that is a dream on your skin. The collection is designed for women always blooming in a free soul. This collection embodies the everlasting connection between nature and women. Flowers that take on the colors of the sky, space and earth. Colors with a bold, yet delicate personality.
“BE FREE AND PASSIONATE LIKE THE MAGIC OF A MEADOW OF COLOURS IN BLOOM.”
--EUGENIA BRUNI
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BESPOKE SERVICES
timeless elegance CRAFTING
A t Heller Jewelers, we believe that every piece of jewelry should be as unique as the individual who wears it. That’s the mission and motto behind our world-class custom jewelry design service, where imagination knows no bounds and your dreams of owning a one-of-a-kind masterpiece come to life. UNLEASHING YOUR CREATIVITY A custom-designed piece can be the perfect celebration of your individuality and personal style. We understand that you may desire something truly special — a piece that reflects your personality and captures the essence of your most cherished moments. Our skilled artisans and design experts are dedicated to collaborating with you to bring your vision to reality, step by step. FROM CONCEPT TO CREATION Creating a custom piece of jewelry is a collaborative journey, and we are with you every step of the way. Our process begins with an in-depth consultation, where we take the time to understand your preferences, style, and inspiration. Whether you have a clear idea in mind or need some guidance, our team will provide expert insights to ensure your custom design exceeds your expectations.
REVIVING SENTIMENTAL VALUE We believe that jewelry carries sentimental value, evoking memories of precious moments and loved ones. If you have inherited older pieces that may no longer suit your lifestyle, our custom design service offers the perfect solution. Our artisans can skillfully redesign and repurpose treasured heirlooms into new, contemporary pieces that honor the past while embracing the future. EXPERT CRAFTSMANSHIP Craftsmanship lies at the heart of jewelry design, and our custom service is no exception. Our artisans are masters of their trade, employing
both traditional techniques and the latest technology to meticulously craft each piece. The use of premium materials and attention to detail ensures that your personalized jewelry is not only a symbol of beauty but also a lasting investment. EXCLUSIVITY AND LEGACY When you choose custom design, you are not merely acquiring a piece of jewelry; you are investing in a legacy. Your one-of-a-kind creation will be the embodiment of your unique story, destined to be cherished and passed down for generations. We invite you to explore the endless possibilities of custom jewelry design. Let us travel this creative journey together, as we turn your dreams into tangible, sparkling reality. Visit us today and let your imagination take flight.
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A FOREVER KIND OF LOVE
From the perfect engagement ring to wedding bands and anniversary gifts, it’s an honor to be part of your happily ever after.
OLIVIA & ZACH Married in Costa Rica on 1/7/2023
QUINCY & HALEY Married in Greece on 9/4/2023
KRISTINE & TYLER Engaged in Africa on 9/13/2022
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ERIKA & BRENDAN Engaged in Banff, Alberta on 12/10/2023
COURTNEY & TANNER Married in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico on 4/14/2023
LAUREN & HARRISON Married in Big Sur on 8/18/2023
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You spend weeks, months or even years looking forward to The Day. By making it your own, you’ll remember every smile, every toast and every sparkle. When you work with Heller Jewelers, your day will be as special as you. Thank you for making Heller part of your life’s special moments. For Brandon and Maddie’s wedding, the bride put her heart into making their big day magical, carefully planning the details including her dress and jewelry, the flowers, the gifts, and of course, the rings.
THE WATCH On The Day, Brandon surprised her with a beautiful Cartier Watch, which he knew she would cherish forever. It perfectly represented the timeless quality of their love. Gifted to her by the groom, Maddie’s watch is the PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER WATCH in stainless steel.
THE RINGS Brandon and Maddie worked together to design the perfect his and hers wedding sets of their dreams. The bride’s ring set features a cushion cut diamond with a round halo and a round eternity band designed for her by Brandon Heller. His band is custom-designed white gold accented with two hidden diamond eternity bands…if you know where to look.
THE ACCESSORIES Maddie Heller dazzled down to the last detail. From her shimmering veil to the sparkle of diamonds on her shoes, each piece was meticulously curated. Maddie’s one-of-a-kind wedding dress was accented with a pair of exquisite emerald-cut earrings totalling 10.02 carats, accentuated by a 64-count round-cut diamond halo. A white gold and diamond bracelet adorned her wrist for this special day.
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THE DETAILS
Congratulations to Maddie and Brandon! We are overjoyed to welcome Maddie into the Heller family and we wish you a long lifetime of happiness.
THE FRAME The Anemone Frame by Michael Aram will showcase Brandon and Maddie’s cherished wedding photo and anemones are said to bring good luck!
THE PHOTOS The stunning couple was photographed by Stephanie Lynn Fine Art Photography.
THE BUTTERFLY The gift of the Baccarat Iridescent Crystal Butterfly symbolized the beauty and transformation of their love.
THE BRACELET The Catherine Cuff will provide Maddie a timeless reminder of the couple’s love and commitment for one another.
THE VENUE Maddie & Brandon were wed on June 24, 2023 at the elegant Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco, surrounded by their loved ones.
THE GLASSES The bride and groom toasted to a lifetime of happiness with Baccarat’s best-selling Dom Perignon Flutes.
THE RECEPTION The bride and groom danced to the band Mercy and The Heartbeats all night long.
THE CUFFLINKS A pair of cufflinks from William Henry added a touch of sophistication to the groom’s attire.
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TELLING YOUR STORY
Meaningful Mix A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO ADDING BANDS TO EITHER SIDE OF YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING TO ADD EVEN MORE HEART AND SOUL TO YOUR RING FINGER.
One of the fastest and most exciting trends is ring stacking. Not only is this a great way to express your individuality, your rings can tell the story of your life. Here are some pointers to help you build your look.
VARY TYPES Mix it up and keep variety in mind while also showing good balance. Statement Rings — Start here with your engagement ring or a vintage cocktail ring. The statement ring will be the center of attention, and you build around it. Eternity Rings — Some of the most beautiful ring stacks include an eternity ring. Don’t be afraid of using different stone shapes and metals to create interesting texture and visual appeal. Classic Bands —Think simple metal bands in yellow gold, rose gold, or white gold. They can also have smooth or textured surfaces for added interest. There are so many options and combos from which to choose. Mix and match metals for the most modern look. Add bands with colored gemstones for added punch. Building your stack over time allows you to express your life’s most celebrated moments. You don’t have to limit yourself to your ring finger; spread the cheer from index to pinkie!
BABY MAKES THREE! “Just the three of us, we can make it if we try!”
ENGAGEMENT RING Your statement ring
THE BAND From the day you said, “I do!”
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION “We’re killin’ it at this marriage thing.”
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INSIDER INFO
ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN ONLY NATURAL DIAMONDS NATURALDIAMONDS.COM
FACTS diamond TO ADDRESS THE MYTHS AND MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY, THE NATURAL DIAMOND COUNCIL CONDUCTED RESEARCH TO BETTER UNDERSTAND THE QUESTIONS CONSUMERS HAVE ABOUT THE INDUSTRY AND TO PROVIDE THEM WITH STRAIGHT ANSWERS.
A natural diamond is a finite mineral created by nature consisting of a crystalline form of pure carbon, the hardest naturally occurring substance and formed deep within the Earth between 1-3 billion years ago. The word diamond alone always means a natural diamond. A laboratory grown diamond, also called a synthetic diamond or lab created diamond, is a man-made product that mimics the physical characteristics and optical properties of a natural diamond but can be made in unlimited quantities. #1 CAN YOU DETECT A LABORATORY- GROWN DIAMOND FROM A NATURAL DIAMOND? Yes! Because they are mass-produced in weeks, laboratory-grown diamonds have specific growth-related patterns, which can be easily detected using professional verification instruments. #2 HOW ARE NATURAL DIAMONDS ETHICALLY SOURCED? Under the Kimberley Process mandated by the United Nations and the World Trade Organization, all rough diamond trade is strictly regulated to ensure it is conflict-free. Other initiatives, such as the Responsible Jewellery Council, help warrant through 3rd party audited certifications that natural diamonds are sourced responsibly.
#3 ARE ALL LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMONDS SUSTAINABLE?
The energy-intensive process to make laboratory-grown diamonds requires the generation of temperatures close to 20% of the temperature of the Sun’s surface. With most manufacturing happening in China and India, whose majority of grid electricity is generated from coal, it’s not possible to make a simplistic green claim. #4 WHAT HAVE BEEN THE PRICE TRENDS FOR LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMONDS? In 2016, a 1.5 carat laboratory-grown diamond cost $10,600 and in early 2023, it decreased to $2,445. While they also fluctuated over the last 25 years, natural diamonds have appreciated in price by approximately 3% on average each year. From 2016 to 2022, in some cases, the price of a 1.5 Carat laboratory-grown diamond has decreased by over 75%.
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#5 ARE NATURAL DIAMONDS RARE? Yes! Global natural diamond recovery peaked in 2005 and has decreased by over 30% in the last 16 years. The annual recovery of all natural diamonds one carat and above can fill just one exercise ball. Diamond formation took place millions, sometimes billions, of years ago in limited zones on Earth. #6 WHAT IS THE NATURAL DIAMOND INDUSTRY DOING TO REDUCE ITS CARBON FOOTPRINT AND PROTECT BIODIVERSITY? The natural diamond industry has set out on its journey to decarbonize in line with global climate targets. Companies like the De Beers Group are committed to becoming carbon neutral by 2030 and Rio Tinto of achieving net zero emissions by 2050. Plus, the diamond industry actively protects the biodiversity covering an area four times larger in size than the land they use.
#7 DO NATURAL DIAMONDS BENEFIT THEIR COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN?
Yes! The natural diamond industry supports the livelihoods of ten million worldwide. Up to 80% of rough diamond value can remain with local communities thanks to local purchasing, employment benefits, social programs, investment in infrastructure as well as the taxes, royalties and dividends paid from the industry to respective governments.
#8 HOW DO I KNOW WHETHER I’M PURCHASING A NATURAL OR A LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMOND? Any organization selling laboratory-grown diamonds, such as retailers or jewelers, are legally required to disclose that it is man-made and must use approved terminology when communicating with clients. #9 IS THE INDUSTRY STOCKPILING DIAMONDS TO DRIVE-UP PRICES? No. Bain & Company reported that inventories across the world declined by 40% in 2021 based on data from company reports and the Kimberley Certification process that governs the rough diamond trade.
#10 WHAT ARE THE WORKING CONDITIONS LIKE IN THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY? NDC members ensure that working conditions are followed to the highest global standards within their mining operations. Plus, 99.7% of employees of NDC members are hired locally and one-third of the natural diamond mining industry are women.
#11 ARE NATURAL DIAMONDS TRACEABLE? The natural diamond industry is accelerating its traceability initiatives and leveraging technology like blockchain to bring transparency to its supply chains.
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20 YEARS OF MENTORING THE GREAT ARTISTS OF TOMORROW
Rolex is celebrating 20 years of the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative, part of the brand’s longstanding commitment to global arts and culture.
Khoudia Touré, 2018–2019 protégée in dance, with her mentor, the renowned Canadian choreographer Crystal Pite.
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20 YEARS OF MENTORING THE GREAT ARTISTS OF TOMORROW
F or more than half a century, Rolex has partnered with some of the world’s most talented artists and leading cultural institutions to celebrate excellence and contribute to perpetuating artistic heritage, creating a link between the past, present, and future. Through the Rolex Perpetual Arts Initiative, a broad portfolio of arts that extends through music, architecture, cinema, and the Rolex mentoring program, the brand confirms its long-term commitment to global culture.
The mentoring experience can provide the opportunity for a thrilling collaboration.
The mentoring program was launched in 2002, with a noble aim: to ensure that the world’s artistic heritage is passed on from one generation to another in a manner that transcends boundaries of nations, cultures, disciplines, and generations. It revived the traditional idea of mentorship, a natural approach coming from a watchmaking company with a long-established system of apprenticeship. At a key moment in their professional lives, as they stand on the brink of recognition, young artists are invited by Rolex to be mentored by great visionaries in their respective fields — artists they might never have hoped to meet, let alone enjoy their guidance. AHEAD OF ITS TIME Rolex was ahead of its time with its vision of a program that was set up to be inclusive and that brought so many art forms — visual arts, dance, theatre, music, literature, film, and architecture — together under one umbrella. It was unique among corporate arts programs in both scope and scale. Twenty years later, the program demonstrates astonishing impact. How many programs have such a huge community of artists and arts administrators that stretches across the world? Since 2002, 1,350 people from 120 countries have been nominated for the program, and hundreds of major artists or influential figures in the arts have nominated young artists or served as advisors. To date, 63 mentors have chosen 63 protégés from 41 countries. Rolex considers the development of this global creative community to be one of the greatest achievements of the program.
Celebrated director Martin Scorsese, mentor in film in 2008–2009, invited his protégée Celina Murga to visit the set of his film Shutter Island .
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At a key moment in their professional lives, as they stand on the brink of recognition, young artists find themselves being mentored by great visionaries in their field. From top: 2006–2007 theatre mentor Julie Taymor and her protégée Selina Cartmell; 2014–2015 architecture protégée Gloria Cabral who was mentored by Peter Zumthor; 2018–2019 music protégé Marcus Gilmore who was mentored by Zakir Hussain; 2016–2017 architecture mentor Sir David Chipperfield and his protégé Simon Kretz.
20 YEARS OF MENTORING THE GREAT ARTISTS OF TOMORROW
REAL IMPACT But numbers and geography do not tell the whole story. The real impact is that many of the Rolex protégés have become artistic leaders in their own right. Tracy K. Smith, for example, who was mentored by German writer Hans Magnus Enzensberger in 2010–2011, received the United States’ greatest honor in poetry — being appointed Poet Laureate two years running. Smith, a writer and academic, has won a host of prizes, including the Pulitzer Prize for Poetry. Lara Foot, a South African multi-award-winning playwright, director, and producer, was mentored in 2004– 2005 by the late theatre, opera and film director Sir Peter Hall. She is CEO and artistic director of Cape Town’s Baxter Theatre, to which she has succeeded in giving an international reputation through its travelling productions. Many cross-disciplinary collaborations have also sprung up among protégés, stimulated and challenged by their peers in different artistic areas. Rolex has created a special collaboration fund to encourage this cross-fertilization among former protégés, now called Rolex Arts Fellows. CALIBRE OF ARTISTS Another striking aspect of the program has been the extraordinary calibre of artists it has attracted to its mission. Brian Eno, Stephen Frears, David Hockney, Zakir Hussain, Robert Lepage, Mario Vargas Llosa, the late Toni Morrison, the late Jessye Norman, Crystal Pite, Julie Taymor, Kazuyo Sejima, and Sir David Chipperfield are just a few of the major artists who have generously given their time to take part. For mentors, the engagement goes further than pure altruism. The experience can provide the opportunity for a thrilling and challenging creative collaboration. For Martin Scorsese, film mentor in 2008–2009, “the mentor gets as much inspiration as the protégé.” David Hockney, who was visual arts mentor in 2004–2005, concurs: “I wouldn’t have considered taking part in the program if I didn’t expect to learn. Good teachers have always learned from their students.” Over 20 years, the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative has achieved respect and legitimacy in artistic circles for its distinctive and unique vision of mentoring — generous and global — that plays a tangible role in promoting excellence and the future of the arts. The program has helped exceptional younger talents reveal their full potential, encouraged dialogue across cultures and disciplines, and built a multigenerational artistic community around the globe.
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
TUDOR BLACK BAY
W hen auction house Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, sold Paul Newman’s 1964-made Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 for a record $17.7-million in 2017, it set off a vintage obsession that has yet to subside. That watch was 37 mm, and it set a new modern standard for sizing in a watch. Smaller watches have since become mainstream, and this year, the trend continues. At the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva earlier this year, brands introduced a slew of vintage and neo-vintage revivals in diameter sizes ranging from 35 mm to 40 mm recalling vintage models. One of those brands was Tudor, the sister brand to Rolex. It launched a Black Bay 54 diver’s watch with elements from the 1954 original, including its 37 mm size. In case you’re thinking that’s a small size for a man, remember that the original Black Bay dive watch, in that size, was used by the French and U.S. navies. Modern touches to the re- edition include an automatic in-house movement, caliber MT5400 with a 70-hour power reserve, and Super- LumiNova highlights on the hands and markers to make them glow in the dark. It is water resistant to 200 meters.
A PERFECT FIT , WHETHER VINTAGE 37MM OR MODERN 41 MM
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When the modern version of the Tudor Black Bay was launched in 2016, it had a burgundy bezel and a 41 mm case. After several iterations since then, the newest model revisits the iconic burgundy bezel and case proportions, but there is one big difference: it contains an evolved, elite movement that is tested according to METAS
Master Chronometer certification standards. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 /+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4 /+6) carried out on a single movement. Also, it must guarantee that accuracy in the presence of magnetic fields
of up to 15,000 gauss. The caliber MT5602-U meets all these criteria and has a power reserve of 70 hours. Another modern touch on this vintage-style watch is the Tudor T-fit clasp on its rubber strap or steel bracelet, which is equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment in five positions.
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CAR CRAZY
BY GARY WOLLENHAUPT
Jerry ’ s New Porsche
The 1999 Porsche 911 Classic Club Coupe Sonderwunsch Factory One-Off underwent a total factory restoration and modification under the direction of the Porsche Club of America. It toured the country for a year before being auctioned at the Porsche 75th Anniversary Auction by Broad Arrow Auctions in June. Seinfeld, who already has one of the most impressive collections of Porsches in private hands, won the bidding at $1.3 million, including the buyer’s premium. The 911 Classic Club Coupe, offered at no reserve, was only available for purchase by PCA members, which Seinfeld has been for more than 30 years.
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T he car represents a singular vision of what a Porsche 911 could be. The 911 Classic Club Coupe is a one-of-one Sonderwunsch (special wishes) project completed by Porsche Classic in collaboration with the Porsche Club of America (PCA). That this is a unique car will not surprise anyone who sees it, but a “No. 001/001” badge on the dashboard underscores its scarcity. A ducktail spoiler reminiscent of the 1972 911 Carrera RS 2.7, a double-bubble roof, 18-inch forged aluminum Fuchs wheels, and unique paint combine to create a striking resemblance to the Type 997 911 Sport Classic. Those looks are only part of the story. It was inspired by the 2010 Porsche 911 Sport Classic and the current 911 Sport Classic and designed by Style Porsche Director of Special Projects, Grant Larson, in collaboration with the Porsche Club of America. The two groups discussed what could have occurred had Porsche’s special manufacturing unit and the PCA worked together in previous decades. They looked back at the 2010 911 Sport Classic, Porsche’s first Exclusive Manufaktur series production model. That inspiration led to a question: What would a prequel to the 2010 911 Sport Classic look like? Larson, designer of the Carrera GT Case Study, the 2012 911 Sport Classic, and the 2023 911 Sport Classic while serving as director of special projects at Style Porsche, involved himself from the beginning. Larson sketched out his vision of a proto-Sport Classic from Style Porsche in Stuttgart. At the same time, PCA Executive Director Vu Nguyen searched for the right donor vehicle. Ultimately, a 1999 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe was located in Virginia. Shortly thereafter, the 911 Coupe was flown back to Stuttgart- Zuffenhausen to begin the transformation from “just” a classic 911 to a 911 Classic Club Coupe. Revealed in 2022 at PCA’s Werks Reunion gathering on Amelia Island, the 911 Classic Club Coupe toured the country that year, visiting PCA events such as the Porsche Parade in the Poconos, Porsche Sports Car Together Fest at Indianapolis Motor Speedway, Werks Reunion Monterey, and ünStock. Based on a 1998 911 Carrera, the chassis, brakes, and engine are taken from the 996.2 911 GT3, the first such model homologated for sale in the U.S. Accordingly, the naturally aspirated 3.6-liter flat-six generates 381 horsepower. The donor car, which PCA Executive Director Vu Nguyen found in a state of neglect in Colombia, Virginia, traveled to the Porsche Classic workshop near the main plant in Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen, where it was originally built. There, it underwent a complete restoration, including total disassembly and strengthening of the body-in-white using original and newly developed parts. One question in car collecting circles is, how much does celebrity ownership add to the value of a car? Auto auction experts can point to a Jerry Seinfeld effect based on previous sales. When Seinfeld sells cars from his collection, they bring, on average, 47 percent more than the average Porsche of a comparable example. Seinfeld spent several times more on this car than similar cars, but who can put a price on a one-of-a-kind? COMEDIAN JERRY SEINFELD, A NOTED PORSCHE COLLECTOR, MASTERED HIS DOMAIN — AGAIN — WHEN HE WON THE HIGH BID FOR AN EXTRAORDINARY PORSCHE.
Photos courtesy of Broad Arrow Auctions
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
CARTIER
PRIVÉ TANK NORMALE
A SPECIAL EDITION OF ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ICONIC WATCHES
E ach year, Cartier creates a special-edition version of one of its iconic heritage watches, under the overall umbrella of its exclusive Privé collection. These collectors’ series are always produced in numbered limited series. This year, special treatment is given to the Tank Normale. Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier and launched two years later, the Tank is one of the company’s most remarkable creations, a marker in the history of watchmaking.
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The special collection includes an hour/minute version that is true to the proportions and beveled sapphire crystal of the original. Available in yellow gold on a brown alligator strap and in platinum on a black alligator strap. In addition, this model is supplied on a yellow gold bracelet or a platinum bracelet, with satin and polished finishes evoking a very ’70s spirit. The Tank celebration also includes a model with a skeleton movement in the special collection, accompanied by a 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonized. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12 hours. Daytime hours appear on the upper part of the dial and night-time hours on the lower part. To symbolize the transition from day to night, the watchmakers have coated the skeletonised bridges with a gradation of shades. It is a limited edition of 50 numbered pieces. There is also a version set with diamonds, in a limited edition of 20 numbered pieces.
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JAPANESE DELICACY
SUSHI SENSATIONS A CULINARY JOURNEY INTO JAPAN’S IRRESISTIBLE DELICACY!
A re you ready to embark on a delightful adventure through the tantalizing world of sushi? This iconic Japanese cuisine has captured the hearts and taste buds of food enthusiasts worldwide. With its unique blend of flavors, textures, and artistry, sushi has become more than just a meal — it’s a sensorial experience that leaves a lasting impression.
Our journey begins centuries ago in the coastal regions of Japan. Sushi’s roots can be traced back to a simple method of preserving fish by packing it in rice, allowing fermentation to take place. Over time, this preservation technique evolved and the fermented rice was discarded, leading to the birth of the modern sushi we know and love today.
One of the aspects that makes sushi a versatile culinary delight is the choice between raw and cooked options. If you’re unsure about raw fish, don’t worry, there are plenty of cooked alternatives that offer equally gratifying taste experiences. But if you’re feeling adventurous, give raw fish a chance! Behind every incredible sushi dish is a master sushi chef, or itamae, who has devoted years to honing their craft. An itamae takes great care in selecting the freshest fish to ensure it’s safe and delicious to eat. Start with milder options like salmon or tuna and you might discover a whole new world of flavors!
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NIGIRI, MAKI, AND BEYOND: UNRAVELING THE SUSHI VARIETIES
Sushi comes in a delightful array of forms, each offering a distinct experience. Nigiri sushi, the most classic variety, consists of a small ball of vinegared rice topped with a slice of fish or other delectable ingredients. Maki rolls, on the other hand, are rice and fillings wrapped in seaweed and cut into bite-sized pieces — a playful way to enjoy sushi with endless creative combinations. For the purists seeking unadulterated seafood pleasure, sashimi is the way to go. No rice, just pristine slices of raw fish, allowing the natural flavors to shine. Remember, sashimi is best enjoyed when dipped lightly into soy sauce with a touch of wasabi, allowing the natural flavors to take center stage.
BEYOND TRADITION: FUSION SUSHI AND UNIQUE CREATIONS
Innovative chefs around the world have embraced sushi as a canvas for culinary experimentation. The rise of fusion sushi has brought exciting blends of flavors and cultural influences to the table. Imagine a spicy tuna roll with a hint of Mexican flair, or a decadent dessert sushi, featuring sweet fillings and drizzled with chocolate. These daring creations challenge tradition while celebrating the essence of sushi — a delightful celebration of taste and imagination. SAKE SYMBIOSIS: THE PERFECT SUSHI PAIRING No sushi feast is complete without a perfect beverage companion. Enter sake, Japan’s iconic rice wine. With its smooth and subtle flavors, sake complements the delicate nuances of sushi like no other. From dry and crisp options to aromatic and fruity varieties, sake adds an extra layer of joy to your culinary journey. So, don’t forget to raise your glass and say “Kanpai!” (cheers) before diving into your sushi indulgence. SUSHI SENSATIONS GO VEGAN For our plant-based foodies, worry not — sushi has embraced the vegan movement too! Vegan sushi options are flourishing, with creative fillings like avocado, cucumber, mango, and tempura sweet potato. These colorful and flavorful rolls are a testament to the ever- evolving nature of sushi, embracing inclusivity and appealing to a diverse audience. Sushi isn’t just a meal; it’s an orchestra of flavors and textures, a celebration of tradition and innovation, and a journey into the heart of Japan’s rich culinary heritage. So whether you’re a seasoned sushi connoisseur or a first-time adventurer, the sushi sensations await! Kanpai to sushi adventures!
SUSHI ETIQUETTE: UNWRITTEN RULES OF THE SUSHI BAR Before you embark on your sushi adventure, it’s essential to familiarize yourself with some unwritten rules of sushi etiquette. For instance, did you know that it’s customary to eat nigiri with your fingers instead of chopsticks? Or that dunking your sushi rice-side down into soy sauce is considered a faux pas? By respecting these customs, you not only show appreciation for the artistry but also enhance your overall dining experience.
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
HALLMARKS of LUXURY
GRAND SEIKO’S TENTAGRAPH AND WHITE BIRCH
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T he Tentagraph chronograph is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph, and it comes out of the gate with a rare feature: a high-frequency movement. The caliber 9SA5 oscillates at 36,000 vph (the standard is 28,800), which gives it a higher accuracy rating than most chronographs — this one is accurate to within +5 to -3 seconds per day. It has a 72-hour (3-day) power reserve thanks to two barrels, impressive for a chronograph. Readability at a glance is also key in chronographs: here, the chronograph seconds and minute hands are curved slightly downward for more accurate readings of the indexes. Elements of the titanium case and bracelet are finished with the brand’s proprietary high polish, called zaratsu, giving it an unmistakable mirror-like shine.
Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 movement is also used in a model that pays tribute to the forest of white birch trees at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains near Shizukuishi, where Grand Seiko’s elite mechanical workshops are located. The case design of this watch is known as the Evolution 9 style, an important part of the Grand Seiko’s signature style. The case has wide lugs and a low center of gravity that ensures it sits easily and securely on the wrist. The zaratsu polish, which gives it a distortion-free mirror shine, alternates with a delicate hairline finish, resulting in a quiet, elegant glow. These are the telltale signs of a high-watchmaking finish.
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TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
T he recent craze for vintage watches and re-editions of mid-century designs has intensified in recent years, and along with that, smaller watches have become a trend. In the 1960s and ’70s — which many see as the glory days of watch design — wristwatch cases rarely exceeded 40 mm, and timepiece lovers have acquired a new appreciation for these smaller cases, combined with the vintage aesthetic. TAG Heuer’s glass box Carrera Chronograph is a prime example of what luxury sports watch brands are doing to bring back the spirit of iconic vintage watches.
the TAG HEUER CARRERA GLASS BOX CHRONOGRAPH
REVISITING AN ICON
The glass box was inspired by an original Carrera collection from the ’60s, including models that ranged in size from 36 mm to 40 mm. The new version is 39 mm, smaller than the 42-45 mm sizes that have been produced in the past few years. One of its salient features, as the name suggests, is the sapphire crystal shaped liked the domed hesalite crystals found on Heuer Carrera models from the 1970s. Now, the crystal has been redeveloped so that the curve flows seamlessly over the tachymeter scale that runs around the inner dial, or flange. The scale has been curved too, further contributing to the watch’s legibility and ensuring the tachymeter can be read from a wider range of angles. The Carrera’s signature blue dial makes an appearance on one of the two re-editions, matched by a blue calfskin leather strap. The second has a racier, black-and-silver “reverse-panda” dial, the nickname given to black watch dials with high-contrast white or silver subdials. The reverse-panda model is a coveted feature found on some of the most collected Heuer Carreras of the 1960s. Both new models contain the brand’s next-generation chronograph caliber, the automatic Caliber TH20-00, with an 80-hour power reserve.
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