Day 5 & 6: Amalfi The night before, the hotel arranged our pickup for our short, incredible ride down to Amalfi. Typically these short 30-45-minute trips are about €100, but when you take into account that one day’s parking costs that, or even double, it is the most economical and comfortable way to get around (often in a Mercedes private car). We arrived around noon at the Amalfi Hotel Aurora (€384 per night including breakfast) — a perfectly located hotel on the north end of the beach near the marina. Our balcony room was ready and very nice. The hotel is just a lovely 100- yard stroll from the entrance to the village square of Amalfi along a shoreline filled with delightful restaurants, shops, playgrounds, and a second small beach. We immediately made our way into a busy Amalfi for a pasta lunch at one of the many cafés near the square. We people-watched and sipped on delicious local wine while taking in an absolutely magical scene. Amalfi almost doesn’t look real, because it is so perfectly authentic. The patina on the buildings, the massive steps of the 9th century Duomo di Sant’Andrea, which anchors the smallish Pizza del Duomo, and the surrounding menagerie of cafés, pastry shops, and boutiques in ancient buildings of ornate Italian architecture is breathtakingly quaint yet luxurious. Hollywood couldn’t make a set this movie-worthy.
Again, the porter took our bags up to the drop- off and the hotel arranged for Peppe to pick us up and take us up to Fattoria La Tagliata (€374 per night, breakfast included), known for its amazing family-style, farm-to-table, dinners. Few know that they also have three cabin-style rooms. We scored Limonella, with an unreal trellis-covered patio and helicopter views of Positano below all the way to Capri. We were greeted with appetizers and a bottle of Prosecco as soon as we arrived. This family-owned farm/restaurant/ inn had the very best hospitality of our Amalfi trip. We made our way down the short path to dinner and found it overwhelming! However, the rustic-style dining room and mind-blowing view out the open windows did not prepare us for what was next. You don’t order — you get what they are making in the kitchen that evening, with everything coming from their terraced farm below, filled with fresh vegetables, fruits, and farm animals. They give you healthy-sized portions to share. There might be four meats (the rabbit was the best), four pastas, fresh breads, a bottle or two of wine, and multiple desserts. If you want something special, just ask, and they will prepare it. Your glass will never empty. You can’t possibly eat it all and don’t try (€60 pp). The next day we took our own tour of the grounds after another breakfast that was indescribable. An over-the-top free lunch to those staying there was an added bonus. They are known for their six-hour cooking class that turns
We enjoyed our Italian dinner that night across the street at Lo Smeraldino (€25- €40 pp) nestled right on the water with that view only the Amalfi Coast can give you. After a glorious breakfast outside on the covered hotel terrace, our second day in Amalfi started at the Duomo di Sant’Andrea and a tour of its museum grounds. The cost is nominal but the experience seeing the crypt, the original structures, and the gardens is unforgettable. Afterwards, we enjoyed mimosas on the square and watched as a bride and groom pulled up in an escorted red Ferrari, parked at the bottom of the duomo, and made their way up with their wedding party for a gorgeous celebration. A highlight of the day was a short walk up to what we thought was just a ruin overlooking the beach. However, upon arrival, we realized the tower had a restaurant called La Torre Saracena. We had a beautiful salad lunch served by the entertaining Angelo, but the view down on all of Amalfi was extraordinary. At the very least, go up there for the views and a good glass of vino! A cool and comfy evening under the stars, invited us back into Amalfi — now with far fewer people — to Andrea Pansa, next to the duomo, to enjoy dessert, coffee, and Limoncello under the soft lights of the town square. Saluti!
into a frenzied party filled with music and laughter. Book in advance (€150 pp)!
Fattoria La Tagliata
Ristorante Lo Smeraldino
La Torre Saracena
AMALFI
26 | RUMMELE’S JEWELERS MAGAZINE
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