The ar i s tocrat of f ibers makes every man a king , every woman a queen.
SIGNS OF QUALITY: THE REEL DEAL Reeled silk, in which the cocoons have been unrolled, consists of fibers more than a mile long. The filament from as many as 10 cocoons are reeled together to give one long, strong strand. It’s that smooth, uninterrupted thread that gives silk its strength and makes it so comfortable to wear. But not all silk is createdequal.Cheaper silks canbemanufactured from cocoons that have been damaged by emerging silk moths, which have to dissolve sections of the cocoon to emerge because they have no teeth. The filaments from broken cocoons can be spun into thread, sometimes using a synthetic binding thread, as are the silk fibers shed during the spinning process. WHEN SILK SUITS Fabrics that result from reeled silk of cultivated Bombyx mori have a natural luster, drape, and durability suitable for everything from neckwear to shirts and suits. In combination with other fibers, silk offers comfort with wrinkle-resistance and long wear. Most terms for silk fabrics define both the weight of the fabric and the origins of the silk. Cultivated silk from China, Japan, Thailand, India, and South America is used for everything from undergarments to outerwear. Chiffon, today used primarily for scarves and sheer blouses, is a very light, almost transparent fabric. Delicate charmeuse, used for underwear and blouses, is a lightweight fabric that drapes well and has a semi-lustrous surface on one side and a dull finish on the other. Habutai, or China silk, means “soft as down” in Japanese and identifies a
fabric that is soft, lightweight, lustrous, and has a smooth surface. Dupioni describes a shimmering, moderately crisp fabric made from “double” silk threads drawn from double cocoons spun side- by-side, sometimes of two slightly different colors. For suits and jackets, designers favor heavier silk fabrics and silk blended with other fibers, such as wool. Silk shantung, once woven of wild silk from Shantung, China, now identifies a fabric popular for summer dresses and suits. Organdy and organza are stiff, plain-weave silk fabrics used to stiffen constructed garments because they retain their crispness through repeated washings. Tussah, made from wild silk, is usually more uneven, coarser, and stronger than cultivated silk; comes in a variety of naturally off- white to brown shades; and is usually blended with other fibers to increase the natural filament lengths. Silk noil — an uneven, nubby fabric — is a byproduct of spun silk. Because the fibers aren’t suitable for even, lustrous yarns, they are spun, sometimes with other fibers, to produce novelty yarns. SILK CARE Avoid spot cleaning silk with water. Applying water causes a ring to form when it comes in contact with serincin, a gummy substance occurring naturally in silk. For best results, follow the manufacturer’s care label sewn into each garment. Manufacturers usually recommend dry cleaning silk garments. But don’t overdo it; harsh chemicals can damage the natural silk fibers and reduce garment life.
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