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Six new models in IWC Schaffhausen’s new Portugieser collection demonstrate the brand’s broad range, from high complications to entry level automatics. The collection includes new Automatic, Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar,Yacht Club, and Tourbillon models. The new Portugieser Automatic represents a new entry level price point for the collection, along with a smaller diameter of 40 mm. The smaller size is surprising, since the Portugieser, which began as a pocket watch, is known for its outsized dimensions. The smaller size makes it wearable for women. It has the original dial design from the 1930s, with a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, and it contains a new movement, the IWC caliber 82200, with components made of non-wearing ceramic. The new Portugieser Chronograph is one of the boldest chronos to be introduced by IWC, with striking red or green tone-on-tone dials. The design includes totalizers in the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and a sporty quarter-second scale along the flange. The Perpetual Calendar, also revamped, contains a newmovement from the 82000-caliber family which, because it is integrated rather than built with a module, is slimmer than its predecessor. Cased, it has a diameter of just 42 mm. Like the company’s original, Kurt Klaus-designed perpetual calendar introduced in the 1980s, the calendar functions can still be advanced from the crown. There are two tourbillons among the new Portugiesers, one with a perpetual calendar and the other with a chronograph function. The tourbillon carriage on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon (Ref. 5045) is uniquely visible at 12 o’clock, while the moon phase is incorporated with the month display at 6 o’clock. The case is either platinum or Armor gold and is limited to 50 pieces each. The Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph (Ref. 3940) combines a retrograde date display and chronograph. Chronograph hours and minutes share a single totalizer at 12 o’clock. The star of the new collection is the Yacht Club Moon & Tide, with a newly developed tide display showing the expected times of the next high and low water, along with a dual hemisphere moon phase display. This watch is a frontrunner among the finalists this year in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Oscars of watchmaking. FROM TOURBILLONS TO ENTRY LEVEL AUTOMATIC IWC PORTUGIESER ALL NEW
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon.
Portugieser Chronograph.
Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.
Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide.
Z A D O K J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E [ 105
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