Fredric H. Rubel Digital Magazine Sp2021

THE 42 MM CASE CATCHES THE LIGHT LIKE A WELL-CUT DIAMOND

Rolex went a long way to make sure the Sky-Dweller with the Oysterflex bracelet is an extremely comfortable watch — easily worn while traveling — but it is also an extremely functional complication. It has a date window, with the signature Cyclops lens cover, and it is a dual timer, with a 24-hour second time zone for reference time on the inner dial ring. A clever month index is shown discreetly as a red square in a window behind each hour marker on the center dial. For example, January is represented by 1 o’clock, February by 2 o’clock, and so on. The border of each tiny opening is chamfered to perfection. The Sky-Dweller is equipped with the Ring Command system. This mechanism of interaction between the rotatable bezel, the winding crown, and the movement, developed and patented by Rolex, allows the user to select the watch’s functions one-by-one — calendar (date and month), local time, or reference time — by turning the fluted bezel counterclockwise by one, two, or three positions

respectively. The selected function can then be rapidly adjusted in either direction using the winding crown. The simple and intuitive Ring Command system is a complex mechanism consisting of around 50 components. Its design demanded state-of-the-art watchmaking and micromechanical expertise.At the heart of this system are a double cam and levers that engage various gear trains inside the movement, according to the function selected. One of these cams is activated by pulling out the winding crown; the other is driven by rotating the bezel to activate setting wheels located in the middle case of the watch. The movement, Rolex 9001, is one of the most complex calibers created by the brand. It features a blue Parachrom hairspring, 72-hour power reserve, and exceptional shock resistance and accuracy. The 42 mm case is yellow gold, with Rolex’s signature fluted bezel, which catches the light like a well-cut diamond.

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