FUN IN FUNCHAL Funchal cascades down steep hillsides towards the glistening blue sea, and since our arrival a few hours ago, we have already explored some of the narrow steep roads. We lay back as the car propelled us upward and held our breath as we swept downhill — often with stone walls on either side and a hair’s breadth between car and stone. Here and there we found viewpoints where we stopped to admire the vista spread out below. Tropical flowers were still in bloom, and they added splashes of bright color to the scene. Feeling hungry after an early flight, we stopped for refreshment in town at Rei da Poncha. We ordered mammoth hot dogs with the traditional poncha, a strong alcoholic drink made with distilled alcohol derived from sugar cane, honey, and lemon juice. It is always accompanied with peanuts, and here they were served in tubs. One of Madeira’s most famous attractions is the famous wicker sledge ride, which takes tourists at hair-raising speed down narrow streets, from Monte to the city below. The sledges are pushed by two men dressed in traditional white with straw boaters, who use their boots as breaks. Originally, in the 19th century,
the sledges were used to transport locals, but today they transport tourists like us. With the wind in our faces as we compete with crossing cars at intersections, the experience is, at the very least, memorable. A more leisurely ride from the hills above Funchal can be had by cable car. As usual, we had to be unconventional and take the journey in reverse. This meant great sweeping views from our own car on our way up, as well as amazing vistas from the cable car on the way down. Another must-see is the farmers market in the center of town. Here the flower sellers are dressed in the national costume. Their hats resemble a piece of fruit cut in half with a sprig protruding from the top. This market also offers a wide variety of local fruits and vegetables, many unknown to us. There are aromatic herbs and spices, vegetables, meat, wines, and local crafts. In the little bakery I had the best Portuguese tart I have ever tasted. Flaky and warm from the oven.
Northern coastline of Ponta de Sao Lourenco in Madeira, Portugal
33 FREDRIC H. RUBEL MAGAZINE
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