PREMIER PAIRINGS
fall and the holiday season — time to DRINK THE CLASSICS!
BY CHRIS CREE, MASTER OF WINE
W hen the fall weather arrives, there is no doubt that my tastes start to lean towards the classic regions of Europe and their iconic wines. I make the switch from more casual summer cooking to cooler weather’s call for heartier fare, and as a result, I look for wines to match. If there is one country that seems to capture the idea of classic wines the best, it is arguably France. Its well-known regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire, Rhone, and Champagne produce some of the most famous wines in the world. They are the benchmarks to which so many other wine regions have aspired and emulated with their own wines. Their wines also work extraordinarily well with the season’s heartier fare. While top wines from the best domaines in France can reach four figures (and more), you can also find value, even in such storied regions as Bordeaux and Burgundy. At Cree Wine Company we take pride in selecting only the very best wines, tasting thousands of wines every year and only bringing in the best, whether it’s an under $20 everyday red or white or a $1,500 collectible. Here are some of my favorites for the season, with a top-tier example for special occasions and a value- price alternative that has all of the elements of the top wine at a much lower price — great for larger groups, friends, and family. Cheers! BURGUNDY Located in central eastern France, the Burgundy region produces some of the finest expressions of chardonnay and pinot noir in the world. The moderate continental climate, ancient marine soils, and long history of winemaking in the region create the perfect environment for these two grapes. And while the best burgundy today can be very expensive (into the tens of thousands of dollars per bottle for top wines like Domaine
de la Romanee Conti), there are also excellent values to be found, with enough perseverance. The wines are extremely food-friendly and pair well with a wide range of fare, both red and white. Both can age very well in a cold cellar, developing complexity and nuance that only comes with time. Whites can range from crisp, mineral chablis, to fuller, richer expressions from the great villages of Chassagne, Puligny, and Meursault. They work with cheeses — Epoisses, Délice de Bourgogne, Camembert, Comté — meaty fish, and roasted chicken or turkey, quail, and other game birds. Red burgundy picks up where the whites leave off. They are best with grilled or roasted meaty fish, pork, veal,
duck, squab, pheasant, prime rib, or filet mignon. Bourgogne rouge or blanc are the starting points, often $20-$50 per bottle; then the wines move up through village level, premier cru, and finally grand cru, with each step being higher in quality and, of course, higher prices, too. WHITE BURGUNDY Fontaine-Gagnard Criots-Batard-Montrachet grand cru 2021, $450 : This small family domaine has vineyards in some of the best sites in the world for the chardonnay grape. This grand cru wine is simply stunning — layered and complex, with bright acidity, minerality, richness, and well- balanced oak. While this is drinking very well
now, I’d recommend opening an hour or so before serving or even decanting, even though it’s a white. If you want to see the highest levels that chardonnay can attain, Gagnard’s Criot-Batard is a terrific place to start. Château de Chamilly Bourgogne blanc 2021, $30 : This terrific domaine in the Côte Chalonnaise crafts wines that will give many a chardonnay from the more prestigious Côte d’Or a run for their money at a fraction of the price. You will find aromatic yellow fruits and apple notes joined by beautifully balanced oak, lovely minerality, and a fresh, long finish. It provides classic burgundian character at a minimal price.
34 ROMAN JEWELERS MAGAZINE
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