Richter & Philipps Magazine Jewelers 2024

TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 GMT MEET THE ALL-NEW, MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED BLACK BAY 58 GMT. WITH A 39MM DIAMETER CASE AND A BIDIRECTIONAL BEZEL FESTOONED WITH WARM HUES REMINISCENT OF THE GOLDEN AGE OF AIR TRAVEL, IT’S THE ANSWER TO YOUR JET-SETTING PRAYERS. TUDOR is introducing an additional model to the Black Bay line, the Black Bay 58 GMT. This entirely new model is evocative of an era when the novelty of jet-setting across time zones was matched by glamorous and elegant style. It is fitted with TUDOR’s new mid-size GMT Manufacture Calibre paired with warm hues of burgundy, black, and gilt on the bezel. The universally appealing case of the Black Bay 58 has become the model’s calling card, and now it comes in GMT form. The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. The watch is the perfect match for a GMT function, and with the Black Bay 58 GMT, the jet-setter’s ultimate function comes with a touch of mid-century elegance. The bezel is burgundy and black with a gilt 24-hour scale, keeping with the general design language of the Black Bay line. The design is reminiscent of a time when TUDOR divers’ watches were first being made and jet planes were moving through times zones and delivering interlopers to destinations they could only dream of, faster than ever before. Finishing gilt touches have been applied to the hour markers, hands, and hour markers of the bicolour bezel. Another fan-favorite touch that remains on the Black Bay 58 GMT is the winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief. THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches. The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements. EMBLEMATIC LOOK The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable lines. In the Black Bay 58 GMT, the case offers the proportions of a 39mm case with a thinner profile than a 41mm Black Bay GMT. The bidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin black dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. 28 RICHTER & PHILLIPS JEWELERS MAGAZINE

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