By Celine Simon
TIME ZONE
CALENDARS Patek Philippe Whether one considers the precious perpetual calendars — classic Grand Complications par excellence — or the ingenious Annual Calendar, which the manufacture patented in 1996, Patek Philippe offers a wide range of calendar watches distinguished by their exterior features and their particular display mode. The range has become even more extensive with the addition of the platinum In-Line Perpetual Calendar Reference 5236P-010 and the white gold Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017.
In-Line Perpetual Calendar Reference 5236P-010 In 2021, Patek Philippe unveiled a new perpetual calendar with day, date, and month indications in one large aperture at the 12 o’clock position. Equipped with its distinctive patented display mode, this timepiece was launched in a platinum case framing a blue dial with a black gradation to the periphery. The manufacture is now revisiting this platinum model, endowing it with a rose-gilt opaline dial of vintage inspiration presenting faceted baton-style applied hour markers and faceted baton-style hands, all in charcoal-gray white gold. The in-line perpetual calendar Reference 5236P-010’s elegant 41.5 mm
platinum case, which is entirely hand-polished, is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock. Completing the new rose-gilt opaline is the hand-stitched shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap with square scales, furnished with a platinum fold-over clasp. The Caliber 31-260 PS QL ultra-thin self- winding movement is notable for its additional module, awarded three patents, and its mini-rotor in platinum increasing the winding power. The movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back and it supplies up to 48 hours of power reserve.
Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017 With its double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, date aperture at 6 o’clock, and its subsidiary 24-hour dial incorporating a moon-phase display, the men’s Annual Calendar Reference 5396, launched in 2006, has established itself as a firm favorite. Patek Philippe is now bringing out a new version in 18 karat white gold. The 38.5 mm white gold case (11.2 mm thick) features a blue sunburst dial with a black gradient at the rim, lit discreetly by the radiance of twelve baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.26 ct). This elegant contrast plays up the extreme restraint and legibility of the dial design,
with its faceted dauphine-style hands in white gold and slender sweep seconds hand. An alligator leather strap in shiny navy blue echoes the dial color. It is secured by a fold-over clasp in white gold. This new Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017 houses the Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H self-winding movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, with a power reserve of up to 45 hours and operates at 28,800 beats per hour. The movement requires only one manual adjustment per year, at the end of February.
46 BROWN & CO. JEWELERS MAGAZINE
Powered by FlippingBook