Brown & Co. Magazine Holiday 2020

TAG HEUER TÊTE DE VIPÈRE CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER The first TAG Heuer watch to receive the Besançon Obervatory Tête de Vipère (Viper’s Head) stamp of approval. Besançon Observatory was one of the strictest of the two or three observatories in Europe that assessed and graded Swiss watch movements for accuracy back in the days when timepieces were used in marine navigation. This type of testing was largely abandoned in the 1970s when quartz, a different technology, became popular, but the lab was relaunched in 2006. Since then, only 500 mechanical watches have passed the observatory’s 16-day accuracy test in five positions at three different temperatures. “The Viper’s head stamp,” says TAG Heuer, “is more than simply proof of quality and accuracy. It is confirmation of technical expertise that borders on perfection.”

TUDOR BLACK BAY BRONZE The Tudor Bronze is one of the most celebrated contemporary models introduced by the brand. The bronze case is notable for the way it develops a unique patina over the years, and it is ideal for diving watches since the bronze is particularly resistant to the corrosive effects of salt water. The watch contains the Tudor- made, COSC-certified caliber MT5601 movement, with a silicon balance spring and a 70-hour power reserve. The dial has the brand’s signature snowflake hour hand, first introduced by Tudor in 1969. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

TUDOR BLACK BAY GMT The Tudor Black Bay GMT, with its signature blue and red GMT bezel, has become a cult favorite. It contains an in-house movement, the MT5652, with local jumping GMT functionality. When Tudor resurfaced on the U.S. market in 2013 after a decade-long hiatus, it emerged with the Heritage collection, including the ultra-cool Heritage Black Bay. It is vintage, but rather than imitating one watch, the models in the collection take elements from various earlier watches: snowflake hands, aluminum bezels, rivet-style bracelets, and vintage crystals with raised edges. Now, they are increasingly equipped with in-house movements and value-priced, considering the level of quality.

18 ] B R O W N & C O . J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

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