TIME ZONE
BY CAROL BESLER
TIME THE MANY COLORS OF
LUXURY WATCHMAKERS HAVE DISCOVERED THE POWER OF COLOR!
Bold colored straps and dials were once the trademark of quartz fashion watches, but now luxury watch brands have discovered the color wheel, and they are taking it to the next level. It’s no longer just about pink straps and purple tinted dials — although there is plenty of that — but infusing components of the watch with permanent color. That means new case materials, anodized or illuminated bridges and other components of the movement, colored dial plates that have been treated with vibrant enamel and miniature painting, and, of course, plenty of dazzling gem setting, including various applications of rainbow sapphires. The result is a blast of intense, joyful, edgy color that is beyond refreshing. The combination of hand-craftsmanship, mechanical movements, precious metals, colorful gemstones and high- watchmaking finishes such as grand feu, champlevé, or plique-à-jour enamel are a winning formula. Not only do they add up to unrivalled beauty but they also add value. That makes luxury watches more collectible and sought- after by aficionados than ever before. Among the new introductions for ladies, pink is hot right now — to match your pink diamonds! — and purple is emerging in unlikely places, not just on ladies’ watches but on some daring men’s pieces. The hottest colors for men include blue, green, and salmon. Salmon is especially interesting from a collectible point of view. The color is often used on special editions, with high complications or platinum cases — watches that are very limited and highly coveted. Salmon dials are also a craze in the vintage sector — the color was popular in the 1940s, and pieces made by luxury brands from that period are hot. Here are a few examples of how color is heating up the luxury watch market right now.
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL CELEBRATION Rolex has pulled out all the creative stops in its 2023 collection, including this joyful take on the traditional Oyster Perpetual. The dial is lacquered with 51 bubbles in bright colors: turquoise blue, candy pink, yellow, coral, red, and green. Each color is applied and fired separately, followed by the application of black lacquer borders on each bubble. Sizes begin small, at 31 mm, and there are also 36 mm and 41 mm sizes. All cases are steel, and movements are automatic.
28 RUMMELE’S JEWELERS MAGAZINE
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