The History of
INDUSTRY INSIGHT
The History of
NEW DIAMOND SOURCES AND 19TH-CENTURY INNOVATIONS As Indian diamond mines neared exhaustion, prospectors discovered the first diamonds in Brazil in the early 18th century, significantly boosting the global supply of diamond rough. Diamonds, once reserved for European nobility due to their limited supply, became accessible to a broader public, leading to the growth of the diamond-cutting industry. The old mine cut gained prominence during this period. THE MODERN ERA OF DIAMOND CUTTING The South African diamond rush led to significant innovations in diamond cutting. The bruting machine, invented in the early 1870s, allowed for the first truly round cuts, known as Old European cuts. The motorized diamond saw then revolutionized the shaping of diamonds, and Henry Morse perfected the round brilliant cut using scientific principles of light performance. In addition to perfecting the round brilliant cut, new technology and knowledge enabled the development of new cuts. Most familiar cuts, including the emerald, oval, princess, and radiant, also came along in the mid-20th century. Sadly, the diamond- cutting centers of Europe were devastated during World War II. However, with the help of Jewish refugees, new centers emerged elsewhere, notably in Israel and India. Today, India leads the world in diamond cutting. The history of diamond cutting is a tale of innovation, artistry, and resilience. From India to Venice and beyond, the brilliance and beauty of natural diamonds, shaped by centuries of craftsmanship, continue to captivate and provide livelihood for millions.
Opposite Page: Asscher working on the Cullinan diamond, 1908; De Clercq Roman rough diamond ring, 3rd–4th century AD, courtesy of Les Enluminures. Below: The Sancy Diamond
NEW DIAMOND SOURCES AND 19TH-CENTURY INNOVATIONS As Indian diamond mines neared exhaustion, prospectors discovered the first diamonds in Brazil in the early 18th century, significantly boosting the global supply of diamond rough. Diamonds, once reserved for European nobility due to their limited supply, became accessible to a broader public, leading to the growth of the diamond-cutting industry. The old mine cut gained prominence during this period. THE MODERN ERA OF DIAMOND CUTTING The South African diamond rush led to significant innovations in diamond cutting. The bruting machine, invented in the early 1870s, allowed for the first truly round cuts, known as Old European cuts. The motorized diamond saw then revolutionized the shaping of diamonds, and Henry Morse perfected the round brilliant cut using scientific principles of light performance. In addition to perfecting the round brilliant cut, new technology and knowledge enabled the development of new cuts. Most familiar cuts, including the emerald, oval, princess, and radiant, also came along in the mid-20th century. Sadly, the diamond- cutting centers of Europe were devastated during World War II. However, with the help of Jewish refugees, new centers emerged elsewhere, notably in Israel and India. Today, India leads the world in diamond cutting. The history of diamond cutting is a tale of innovation, artistry, and resilience. From India to Venice and beyond, the brilliance and beauty of natural diamonds, shaped by centuries of craftsmanship, continue to captivate and provide livelihood for millions.
Opposite Page: Asscher working on the Cullinan diamond, 1908; De Clercq Roman rough diamond ring, 3rd–4th century AD, courtesy of Les Enluminures. Below: The Sancy Diamond
THE BIRTH OF DIAMOND CUTTING IN EUROPE European diamond cutting began in Venice around 1330. Although perfectly shaped diamond crystals were still rare in Europe, as they were kept for the Indian market, one could argue that the scarcity of ‘ideal’ rough diamonds prompted Europeans to advance the techniques to improve the appearance of the only rough diamonds they had access to. The advent of continuous rotary motion in tools during the 15th century revolutionized diamond cutting, extending beyond superficial polishing of rough crystals. This innovation allowed cutters to grind facets into diamonds more efficiently, expanding the possibilities for creative designs. In the late 15th century, Europe’s economic center shifted to the North Sea, and as a result, the first diamond-cutting communities emerged in Paris, Bruges, and Antwerp. The cutters were mostly Jewish, as it was one of the few professions in which they were not barred from participating at the time. By the end of the 15th century, diamond cutting had advanced beyond the limitations of the rough. THE RISE OF ICONIC CUTS IN THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES Most importantly, the rose cut emerged during this period and gained popularity. Simultaneously, India’s diamond cutting also advanced. The 17th century brought a new vision of what diamonds should look like, leading to the development of the brilliant cut. Cutters designed these brilliant cuts with pavilion-based proportions, concentrating most of the weight in the lower part of the stone. This approach allowed more light to reflect through the top, creating the signature sparkle we recognize in diamonds today. The Mazarin Cut, invented in the mid-1600s, was the first true brilliant cut featuring 17 crown facets. The Peruzzi Cut, developed in the 1700s, improved upon the Mazarin Cut and served as the inspiration for the old mine cut, which further developed the brilliant cut. King Louis XV of France commissioned the marquise cut in the mid-18th century. This cut, along with others, represented variations of the brilliant design suited to different rough shapes.
THE BIRTH OF DIAMOND CUTTING IN EUROPE European diamond cutting began in Venice around 1330. Although perfectly shaped diamond crystals were still rare in Europe, as they were kept for the Indian market, one could argue that the scarcity of ‘ideal’ rough diamonds prompted Europeans to advance the techniques to improve the appearance of the only rough diamonds they had access to. The advent of continuous rotary motion in tools during the 15th century revolutionized diamond cutting, extending beyond superficial polishing of rough crystals. This innovation allowed cutters to grind facets into diamonds more efficiently, expanding the possibilities for creative designs. In the late 15th century, Europe’s economic center shifted to the North Sea, and as a result, the first diamond-cutting communities emerged in Paris, Bruges, and Antwerp. The cutters were mostly Jewish, as it was one of the few professions in which they were not barred from participating at the time. By the end of the 15th century, diamond cutting had advanced beyond the limitations of the rough. THE RISE OF ICONIC CUTS IN THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES Most importantly, the rose cut emerged during this period and gained popularity. Simultaneously, India’s diamond cutting also advanced. The 17th century brought a new vision of what diamonds should look like, leading to the development of the brilliant cut. Cutters designed these brilliant cuts with pavilion-based proportions, concentrating most of the weight in the lower part of the stone. This approach allowed more light to reflect through the top, creating the signature sparkle we recognize in diamonds today. The Mazarin Cut, invented in the mid-1600s, was the first true brilliant cut featuring 17 crown facets. The Peruzzi Cut, developed in the 1700s, improved upon the Mazarin Cut and served as the inspiration for the old mine cut, which further developed the brilliant cut. King Louis XV of France commissioned the marquise cut in the mid-18th century. This cut, along with others, represented variations of the brilliant design suited to different rough shapes.
Diamond
Diamond
Cutting
Cutting
SHAPING THE UNSHAPEABLE:
SHAPING THE UNSHAPEABLE:
THE STORY OF DIAMOND CUTTING BY GRANT MOBLEY
THE STORY OF DIAMOND CUTTING BY GRANT MOBLEY
S ince their discovery, natural diamonds have captivated humanity. Their extreme resistance to shaping and polishing imbued them with folklore and superstition. Because of their unique properties, humans were unable to cut diamonds for hundreds of years after their discovery.
S ince their discovery, natural diamonds have captivated humanity. Their extreme resistance to shaping and polishing imbued them with folklore and superstition. Because of their unique properties, humans were unable to cut diamonds for hundreds of years after their discovery.
THE EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO SHAPE DIAMONDS An Indian text from the 13th century, named The Agastimata , is the first to mention diamond cutting, stating, “The diamond cannot be cut using metals and gems of other species, but it also resists polishing; the diamond can only be polished using other diamonds.” 13th-century Islamic jewelry featuring simple table-cut diamonds are likely be the first known cut diamonds.
From top: Diamond Design, c. 1919; Les Enluminures table-cut diamond ring, c. 1600; Tudor table-cut diamond ring, c. 1485–1603 (courtesy Berganza).
THE EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO SHAPE DIAMONDS An Indian text from the 13th century, named The Agastimata , is the first to mention diamond cutting, stating, “The diamond cannot be cut using metals and gems of other species, but it also resists polishing; the diamond can only be polished using other diamonds.” 13th-century Islamic jewelry featuring simple table-cut diamonds are likely be the first known cut diamonds.
From top: Diamond Design, c. 1919; Les Enluminures table-cut diamond ring, c. 1600; Tudor table-cut diamond ring, c. 1485–1603 (courtesy Berganza).
48 | B ACHENDORF’ S
49 | B ACHENDORF’ S
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