Brown & Co. Magazine Holiday 2021

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b y C A R O L B E S L E R

THE PASHA IS BACK! THE WATCH THAT REMA INS A CULT FAVOR I TE MORE THAN 30 YEARS AFTER CART I ER INTRODUCED I T HAS BEEN REFRESHED AND RELAUNCHED , WI TH A NEW MOVEMENT AND A SPEC I AL PLACE FOR A SECRET MESSAGE .

T he Pasha, first introduced in 1985, is so-called because it was based on a design previously commissioned by the Pasha of Marrakech, Thami El Glaoui. The Pasha was a watch connoisseur and a client of Cartier’s since the mid-1920s. The special order was placed in 1943 and referenced in Cartier’s archives. It later made its way into Cartier’s regular collection, and although it launched as a men’s watch, the Pasha famously became a favorite among women. Cartier eventually labeled it as unisex and began creating models for both men and women, in both 41 mm and 35 mm sizes. Over the years, the design was widely copied by other brands for ladies’ watches.

The relaunched Pasha retains the signature elements of the original, including the square inner chapter ring framed by a round case, fluted crown cover, sword- shaped hands, and the distinctive Arabic font for the numerals 12, 3, 6, and 9 — a departure for Cartier, which is known for its Roman numerals. It also retains the distinctive bracelet connectors, along with a more subtle version of the original decorative chain that attaches the crown to the case. And there’s a special bonus: Cartier left a flat surface under the chain that can be engraved with a personalized message that can only be seen when the chain is removed.

The new Pasha de Cartier is a full collection, available in 18k yellow and pink gold, along with a much-anticipated stainless steel version that makes it immediately accessible. There are also diamond-set and jewelry pieces and a rare skeletonized model. There are several strap options, as well, which are easily interchangeable. The new movement is Cartier’s automatic caliber 1847 MC, with a 40-hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 100 meters, which keeps it squarely on the sportier side of dress watches, despite its decorative elements. Fit for a Pasha or a princess!

24 ] B R O W N & C O . J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

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